By Bob Sacks
When you have friends who are so oeno-centric that they devote enormous amounts of time, talk, and effort in an unending search for great wines, it is always very amusing to be a part of a Best Bottle Night.
The most recent gathering was held last week at the incomparable Restaurant Nicholas, where we were assured of a memorable evening. The owner, Nicholas Harary, prepared a special wine tasting menu for us, and wisely seated our group of seven miscreants in a private room, isolated far from the quieter diners; and was kind enough to share some of his extensive wisdom regarding several wines during the evening. W., our unflappable server, who is no stranger to this group, was cool and composed on the playing field!
We started with a mystery wine aperitif, later revealed to be Bruno Paillard NV Rose Champagne, so beautifully pale pink it took a minute to call it rosé; it was fresh, concentrated, and perfectly balanced in weight. Excellent!
Cubes of toothsome Yellowfin Tuna Tartar, lightly coated with a bright Orange Soy Dressing, and red miso aioli, were paired with a 1996 Coche Dury Corton-Charlemagne. Far too cold and muted upon opening, the wine warmed over time, becoming less reticent and putting on weight, and ultimately was voted one of the best bottles of the night.
A 2010 Bouchard Montrachet, even when married with perfectly Seared Day Boat Scallops, crispy Tempura Broccoli, Sesame Puree, and a piquant Kumquat Marmalade, was disappointing. Big T. led off with the comments: “tight and angular, highly acidic, and lacking fruit,” which were echoed by the rest of us.
Our anticipation was high for the 1990 Roumier Bonne Mares, a stellar year and producer, but it fell far short of expectations. Mr. Peanut thought the finish very dry, and noted that it was on the decline. Not so the creamy Roasted Pumpkin Risotto, garnished with Guanciale (pork cheek “bacon”), Mascarpone, and goat cheese, which provided comfort to ease the pain of that sad Roumier.
We were deeply concerned as we opened a 1990 and 1993 Armand Rousseau Chambertin side by side, and it turned out to be with good cause. Even The Original Road Warrior, a longtime collector and lover of fine burgundy found little to love in either bottle. The ’90 was clearly over the hill, and losing structure; the ’93 was a bit less far gone, but also thin and lacking in fruit. These were paired with a lightly char-grilled Swordfish, Pan-roasted fennel, and Buttermilk emulsion, which was meant to compliment the Burgundian velvetiness, had it still been there.
Next up was 1999 Vogue Musigny, paired in the blind with another red wine, and we were asked to identify both: find the Musigny, and guess the other wine. The difference between the two was striking. One lean and structured, less than stellar; the other soft, falling apart, and facing oblivion. Both The Alien and The Gremlin were sure the mystery wine was a Northern Rhone (Syrah), but it was revealed to be a 1995 Chateau Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape (Grenache), which was nothing like previously superb bottles we had consumed. Old Grenache can frequently be mistaken for Pinot Noir, but this one was too far gone to speak. Even the delicious Roasted Venison, chestnuts, chanterelles, parsnip, and Cranberry Jus, a perfect fall dish, could not resuscitate these wines.
The Artisanal Cheese plate shared the table with the best red wine of the night: 1989 Chateau Haut Brion, just entering its window of drinkability, and highly praised by JC, who echoed the thoughts of the rest of the group, by finding it to have “typical Graves tobacco-inflected fruit, perfect acidity, and a gently tannic backbone,” making for a much appreciated bottle – finally, a true best bottle!
We were very relieved that at least one red wine could carry that honorific; it had been a tough night for the burgundies, but that is the nature of Burgundy. You sometimes have to open many to find one that sings. Does this make any sense? Of course not, but tell that to die-hard Burg lovers!
Our final course was truly special: Chestnut Soufflé, chocolate ice cream, and Chestnut Chocolate Crumble. 1986 Rieussec Sauternes was served with this elegant and novel dessert, and was aptly described by the irrepressible RoFlo as “packed with bananas and tropical fruit.” Yum!
Will this atypical experience dissuade this eclectic group of winos, who have shared some truly memorable bottles over the years? Absolutely not! We will continue to have periodic Best Bottle Nights at great venues like Nicholas, which provide special wine tasting dinners and impeccable service.
It was more like a So-So Bottle Night, but still great fun; and a reminder that you never know exactly what you’re going to get when you open that bottle.
À Votre Santé!
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, is part of The Two River Times restaurant review team Bob & Bob
