Bob & Bob: Kunya Siam Rating: Good

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Bob & Bob Resturant Review:
Kunya Siam Rating: Good
IN AN ONLINE poll conducted by CNN in 2011, seven of Thailand’s unique dishes were chosen as the “World’s 50 Most Delicious Foods.” If you have not yet tried Thai cuisine, you do not have to travel very far to do so. Nearby Atlantic Highlands can be your destination, and once there, Kunya Siam will introduce you to the complex flavors that are the hallmark of Thai food. Located in a corner storefront on First Avenue, the exterior did not prepare us for what lay within; we found a small, but charming room, with deep red walls, black and gold accents, and lots of live plants and greenery everywhere, making for an exot- ic feeling. There is an even more intimate alcove at the rear which accommodates larger parties. Unlike some restaurants we have experienced, there were smiling people at the front of the house who greeted us warmly as we walked in the door, as if we were old friends, even though it was our first visit. Indeed, this friendliness and desire to ensure our enjoyment of the meal was readily apparent throughout the entire evening. Kunya Siam has more of a country feel to it than big city Thai restaurants; the dishes and flavors are all there, but the room is relaxed, the portions large; the food is clearly homemade and unfussy. Thai cooking is known for its balance, detail, and variety; it offers an interplay of sour, sweet, salty, and spicy in individual dishes or in dishes that complement each other. We started our meal with a variety of small plates. The Fresh Roll ($5.95) lived up to its name; lettuce, carrot, mint, basil, and kale, wrapped in tapioca rice paper with a peanut sauce. crunchy and light, it was clean, simple, and satisfying. We also liked the Ka-Nom-Jeeb ($5.95); steamed wonton skins stuffed with crab meat, shrimp, and chicken, served with a spicy soy dipping sauce. The Vegetable Dumpling ($5.95) was an eye-catching bright green and filled with a chive mixture; well flavored, but a bit doughy.
Som Tum ($6.95), a refresh- ing, mildly spicy, green papaya salad with tomato, string beans, garlic, chili and peanut in a chili–lime juice dressing, was a true complex blend of flavors that showed off the skill of the kitchen. The Curry Puff ($5.95), a fried puff pastry stuffed with chicken, onion, potato, curry powder, and herbs, was served with a cucumber relish. They were greaseless and flaky, some- what reminiscent of an empanada, and one of the highlights of our meal. The Tom Kha Gai soup ($5.95), coconut milk, chicken, mush- rooms, onion, herbs, and cilantro, was fragrant and soothing. We were impressed with the flavors of the Pad Thai with Shrimp ($12.95), a mainstay of Thai cooking. Sautéed rice noo- dles with shrimp, egg, tofu, bean sprout, scallion, and peanut. This makes for a good side dish, but not quite enough shrimp for an entrée. Duck is a staple of Thai cuisine, hence there were three differ- ent preparations on the large menu. We opted for the Siam Duck ($19.95), roasted half duck topped with marinated red curry, coconut milk pineapple, small tomatoes, bell pepper, bamboo shoots, and basil. This was billed as medium hot, and there was a nice, but not overpowering, kick to the dish. Note: The spice level of the food has been toned down a bit for American taste, with many of the dishes marked Mild, Medium, or Hot, to aid in selecting your preferred level of spiciness; of course, you can always ask for more “heat” if you so desire. There were a number of salmon dishes available; we chose the chef’s special, Hor-Mork Salmon ($17.95), broiled with red curry paste, coconut milk, egg, and kefir lime leaf, served in a banana leaf bowl with Hom Mali rice. The flavor of the salmon was a bit overwhelmed by the rich and overly generous saucing. It should come as no surprise that rice is a staple of the Thai diet, and Kunya Siam serves up a credible Thai Hom Mali Rice, which freely translated means “fragrant Jasmine rice,” and it is a very good rendition of same. Rice makes an appearance in a different form, in the classic Thai dessert … Mango with Sticky Rice ($5.95), and we were very happy that the restaurant served up a perfectly ripe mango that made for a cool and piquant counterpoint to the toothsome rice. This a BYO, so we brought a floral 1997 Hugel Jubilee Gewurztraminer to pair with the spicy food, which worked very well. We also think hop-driven beers would be an interesting choice as well. Faithful to Thai culinary tradition, Kunya Siam provides a good introduction for diners who are new to Thai food and an enjoyable experience for those who are already familiar with the complex flavor profiles. The opportunity to taste some of the world’s iconic dishes awaits in your own backyard, and we are sure the folks at Kunya Siam will greet you with the same warm welcome that they gave us, whether it is your first visit or fifth. The Two Bobs rate Kunya Siam: Good.

KUNYA SIAM 99 First Ave. Atlantic Highlands 732-291-2397

Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles,

owner and operator of Sickles Market,

will be reviewing restaurants in this bimonthly column.