ChikyBoom Rating: Good +
In the words of the iconic Bob Dylan, “The times they are a changin’.” Red Bank, already home to a number of restaurants serving uniquely Mexican, Peruvian, and Spanish fare, can now boast of the two-month-old addition of Cuban cuisine as well. No Joe’s Café on Broad Street is no more; in its place is ChikyBoom, an authentic Cuban restaurant. Two of the owners are Cuban, as is Eduardo Bover, the masterful chef; so we have to think we’re eating the real deal food of their culture.
The space has received a modest makeover; unfussy, bright, and cheerful, it is still a long, narrow room, with the former coffee bar in front and tables in the back. Patrons can enjoy Tapas at the bar and a variety of coffees (regular, Cuban, and flavored); teas, and other nonalcoholic drinks; this is a BYO.
The noise level is high, but somehow it adds to the fun and energy of the restaurant.
for a tasty dish.
We ordered a variety of Cold and Hot Tapas from the extensive menu and really enjoyed the Ceviche de Camarones – Shrimp Ceviche ($12.95); shrimp in lime, onions, cilantro, and tomato juice, with crunchy, slender plantain chips. The appealing texture of the shrimp, plus the marinade’s complexity and refreshing acidity, made for a terrific appetizer. We also liked the Pulpo a la Gallega-Galician Style Octopus ($15.95); olive oil, paprika, sea salt, vinegar and lemon, coating the small just-tender chunks.
The Sopa de Mariscados – Seafood Soup ($2.95 cup, $7 bowl) only available Fridays, was a rich tasting mix of tomato and seafood stock and large mussels, but marred by excessive saltiness.
The dish that had us and our guests raving was the Empanadas ($5.95). Of the three varieties, we initially tried beef and chicken; but as soon as we tasted the first mouthful of those, we were compelled to place an emergency order for the shrimp version as well! All were served piping hot; faultlessly crispy, with no trace of oiliness, with well-seasoned fillings. These courses were paired with our bottle of 2010 Avanthia Godella, a lesser known Spanish white, with zesty acidity and an underlying richness that marries well with a variety of foods. If you think Spanish wine is just about Albarino or Rioja, this will change your mind!
The Filete de Pescado Empanizado ( $19.95); breaded and fried Mahi Mahi, deftly seasoned with garlic, oregano, and lime juice, was served with Palitos de Yuca con Mojo Criollo – Fried Yuca sticks with a garlicky creole mojo (garlic, olive oil, and citrus); a little goes a long way!
Cuban Pork is marinated in citrus juices, garlic, and spices, and then slow roasted for hours to create Lechon Asado-Roast Pork ($17.95). Nicely lean, served shredded with a mélange of vegetables, including onions, cabbage, peppers, and carrots, it was tender and savory.
A large-enough-for-two pot of Paella ($28.95) is served only on Fridays and Saturdays; the saffron-infused rice supporting a mix of pimento, chicken, chorizo, shrimp, and mussels, making for an aromatic and very good rendition of this popular dish.
ChikyBoom garnishes many of their dishes with a pickled slaw of cabbage, carrots, and red onions, that seemed somewhat ubiquitous until we actually tasted it; then we couldn’t get enough of it!
We also brought a Spanish red: 2002 Finca Sandoval, a Rhone-like blend of Syrah and Mourvedre, which kept evolving as it sat in the glass; delivering black fruit aromas and a velvety lushness without being heavy-handed, and just enough acidity to keep it from being flabby. We really liked this wine.
The menu offered two different versions of flan ($8.95), both good – creamy and rich, but similar; the Flan de Coco appearing to be distinguished mostly by the addition of shaved coconut on top, the custard showing the same flavor profile as the “regular” flan.
Tres Leches Cake-Three Milks Cake ($6.95), a vanilla sponge cake soaked in a sauce made from condensed milk, evaporated milk, and regular milk, was authentic and decadent. We ate it slowly, the cake getting better and better on the plate, as it absorbed more moisture from the liquid.
ChikyBoom, which has also has a kids menu, is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and amazingly, all meals are prepared by the very dedicated Chef Bover.
Yes, there are visible changes to the vibrant Red Bank food scene, which is slowly adding to its roster of Hispanic restaurants; diners can now choose between a variety of such eateries, each with its own special identity and style. The recent arrival of ChikyBoom allows for yet another option: authentic Cuban food, and is a most welcome addition to the list of local dining choices. Bob Dylan was right!
To our readers: We have decided that Good, Very Good, and Excellent do not allow us enough latitude, so when appropriate, we will add plus signs to denote newer establishments which fall between two ratings and show promise to rate even higher with time.
The Two Bobs rate ChikyBoom: Good +
ChikyBoom
51 Broad St., Red Bank
732-219-7340
Website: Chikyboom.com
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column.
