Barrio Costero
Rating: Good
Now, for something completely different! Our area has no shortage of Mexican restaurants, but with few exceptions, most are more similar than not. Barrio Costero, a 3-month-old Coastal Mexican restaurant on Bangs Avenue in Asbury Park, breaks out of the pack by delivering a modern and sophisticated take on tapas utilizing a fresh and decidedly elegant style of cooking. Even the decor of the restaurant is faithful to the mission statement. The front room, with a large bar, has a modern, stylish feel; high ceilings, lots of ambient light, and a palate of neutral colors create a hip, without trying too hard, cool vibe; stone, chrome, and exposed ductwork complete the industrial chic look. There is an open kitchen in the rear, as well as a 20-person communal table.
Conceptually, the menu offers small, medium, and large plates, all meant to be shared. On our first visit, we ordered an assortment of 10 dishes to share, and although we requested them to be served at a staggered pace, we were overwhelmed when they all arrived within minutes of one another. Lesson learned! On our second visit we chose only two or three items at a time, finished them at our leisure, and then ordered the next flight of plates. We found this a far more pleasurable way to enjoy the nuances of this cuisine.
After a detailed briefing by our waitperson, who was more than accommodating, we started with Ensalada Verde ($12), billed as pea leaves, snow peas, raspberries, and apple chile dressing; it was large and zesty; the greens, however, were mostly arugula, and the kitchen omitted the fresh raspberries. The server returned with the missing berries, but it was already after the fact. We did enjoy the Cauliflower Mixto ($13), a mélange of sautéed cauliflower, broccoli, a rich mole sauce, and tiny candied cocoa nibs. The perfectly roasted vegetables, crunchy and distinctive, made for an unusual “appetizer.”
A generous portion of Tacos De Pescado ($14), hake, charred leeks, paper-thin radishes, on a white corn soft tortilla, was pleasant, but surprisingly bland, in spite of the jalapeno salsa accompanying them.
Quesadillas De Potato ($10) was quite addictive; the potato and cheese, surrounded by a crackling crisp tortilla shell, and plated with sour cream and fresh tomato salsa. Lots of carbs, but worth every bite!
We really enjoyed the Lamb Huarache ($15); the tender strips of meat, with corn masa (flour) “dumplings,” bean puree and mint, was one of our favorite dishes.
Pulpo ($19), charred octopus with crispy potato, chorizo, and kale chimichurri, was delicious, and a nice contrast of textures, but the plate contained one lone tentacle atop a very large potato; for the price, we would like more octopus and less potato.
A dish we will return for, Enchiladas De Mushrooms ($12), fresh New Jersey mushrooms, thinly sliced zucchini, queso blanco cheese, and epazote (a flavorful Central American herb, said to have medicinal powers), was creamy and crunchy, with complex flavors and a great mouthfeel – flat out delicious.
Tostadita of Tuna ($16), raw tuna, avocado, and toasted sesame, had great mouthfeel with a variety of textures, but was under-seasoned, rendering it unremarkable.
A novel dish we had not seen elsewhere, Pollo Dos Caminos ($ 13) contained both crispy chicken breast and a stewed chicken leg, over sautéed quinoa with peas and carrots, and chicken jus. The chicken itself was perfectly tender and would have been excellent had the quinoa not been marred by far too much garlic which overpowered the preparation.
No quibbles with the superb Tenderloin “Al Pastor” ($17), a thick slab of roasted pork with crusty skin, fresh pineapple, thin radishes, jalapenos, bacon jus, and a black bean puree gracing the plate. We felt this presentation best exemplified the new style Mexican cuisine that the restaurant aspires to.
The small, but well curated wine list emphasizes wines by the glass and Iberian selections. There are also intriguing sounding house cocktails, and a strong selection of local draft beers, and bottles and cans as well. Among our wine choices, we particularly enjoyed a 2015 Bodegas Olivares Jumilla Rosada ($8/30); pale pink, a blend of Garnacha and Monastrell; fruity, spicy, and very refreshing with this food. The lemon-lime flavor with hints of green apple in the Lima Vino Verde 2014 ($8/30) made an excellent foil for the richer dishes.
Barrio Costero does Mexican food in a creative and unique style that makes us want to return again. As good as it is, it has all the elements to mature into an even better restaurant once the kitchen seasons more evenhandedly, better balances some of the dishes, and encourages the friendly waitstaff to bring dishes based on the diner’s pace, not the kitchen’s.
The Two Bobs rate Barrio Costero: Good
Barrio Costero
610 Bangs Ave.
Asbury Park
barriocostero.com
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column. Read their reviews here.
