LARIMAR
Rating: Good
Because there are many gradations of restaurant service, from uncaring to overly fussy, it is easy to forget what true first-class service feels like. Usually, if the host or hostess flashes an anemic smile when we arrive, the wait staff remembers what we ordered and who got which dishes, and there is not an interminable wait for the check, we tend to leave with a relatively positive impression.
A recent dinner at Larimar, a very pretty, 7-month-old Spring Lake restaurant, demonstrated what near-perfect service is all about. A cordial greeting, replacement of all plates and silverware for each new course, a description of the ingredients on each plate by our wait-person, note-taking of food allergies, and impeccable wine service, particularly for a BYO, made for a special evening.
The main room has an upscale, city feel, with soft tones of blues and neutrals, banquettes on each wall, high ceilings, and comfortable seating, creating an intimate experience. There is a small “bar” area where diners can eat as well.
John Paulus, who worked front of house at L’Impero, Jeans-Georges, and other well-known New York restaurants, owns Larimar with his brother and parents, and brings a sure-handed knowledge of how a fine restaurant is supposed to feel.
The family chose Luciano Duco, whose credentials include Marea, Del Posto, and Ai Fiori, to man the kitchen and create modern Italian food with hints of Provence.
We were intrigued by the Sunchoke Vellutata ($16), traditionally a sauce, here served as a smooth soup of charred sunchokes, hen-of-the woods mushrooms, and walnut gremolata, a pesto-like garnish. It was unique and delicious.
Octopus alla Plancha ($17), one of our favorite dishes, was seared until juicy and soft; it arrived with ceci (chickpeas) and bits of spicy soppressata.
The most beautiful plating award went to the Bronzino Crudo ($18), thin slices of raw fish, with tiny dollops of celery root puree, small discs of Asian pear, and even smaller circles of visually-striking purple ninja radish. We hated to destroy this food-as-art composition, but we were there to eat. Note: It needed more acidity to really bring out the flavors.
We were told the chef makes his own pastas, and based on the two dishes we enjoyed, this is an area in which he excels. The Agnolotti ($18./$26); small, slightly chewy pillows, encasing chicken, prosciutto, and sage, lightly coated with clarified butter, allowed the filling to retain its identity.
Even better was the Girasole ($16/$24); round, ravioli-like pasta resembling the head of a daisy, filled with house-made ricotta, and a lush, addictive saucing of Swiss chard pesto, and toasted almond pieces. This was wow-wow, and our favorite dish of the night.
After the appetizers and pastas, the entrees felt a bit less exciting. The best of the lot was a juicy Bell and Evans chicken ($30), served with acorn squash, braised chestnut, apple, and a Madeira jus; the interesting sides enhancing the dish.
The Crispy Black Bass ($33) served over very tasty stewed black lentils (umido), parsnip puree, and salmoriglio (a savory condiment of garlic, lemon juice, oregano, olive oil, and parsley) was moist and tender, but the skin was not served crispy as promised.
A generous portion of excellent Scottish Salmon ($32) polenta, pioppini mushrooms, and toasted hazelnuts, was requested medium, but arrived underdone.
Wines we brought and tasted:
2013 Lichen Les Pinots, an unusual blend of 60 percent Pinot Noir and 40 percent Pinot Gris; a very aromatic nose and palate of sweet fruit balanced with citrusy acidity. Very Good.
2007 Ramey Cabernet, a typical California large-scaled wine, was a bit overwhelming for the food. It is more suited for heavier meat dishes.
2008 Coppo Barbera D’Asti Pomorosso; its modern style showed deep red fruit with excellent acidity; a nicely balanced food wine, even if a bit fuller than classic Barberas.
We appreciated the abundance of high quality stemware, and the deft decanting and service of our red wines by the highly trained staff.
A favorite dessert was the Walnut Tart ($10); looking like an upscale pecan pie, but with plump walnuts; served with crème fraiche, and a bit of date puree. It was decadent and sinfully delicious, making for a “just one more bite” ending to our meal.
We really enjoyed our evening at Larimar. There is no question that the décor and service are top-notch; although there were a few slips, overall, the food was quite good. With some fine-tuning and more attention to cook temperatures and seasoning, there is no question that Larimar will merit an even higher rating in the near future. We will be back!
The Two Bobs rate Larimar: Good
LARIMAR
1311 Third Ave
Spring Lake
732-359-6700
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column. Read their reviews here.
