Muang Thai
Rating: Very Good
As we were pondering where to eat next, divine intervention in the form of a timely suggestion from a longtime reader directed us to Muang Thai.
Located on a busy corner of Red Bank, it had never caught our eye despite the multitude of times we have driven past. The recommendation immodestly declared it “the best Thai food I have ever eaten.” A mighty bold statement, but having enjoyed this cuisine here and abroad, we can state that not only does Muang Thai do very good Thai food, it does very good food in general! The unassuming exterior did not prepare us for the tastefully ornate and transporting décor in the two rooms that comprise this restaurant. Red and gold paint and accents, wall hangings, and soothing lighting, made for an exotic Asian atmosphere.
Gyow Tod ($7.95), ground chicken and corn in a perfectly crisp, greaseless, fried wonton skin, with plum sauce, was addictive. The arrival of the piping hot wrappers reduced our conversation to oohs and aahs until the plate was empty. Yes, we really liked these!
It was our intention to forgo some favorites in order to try newer dishes we saw on the menu, but knowing that Chicken Satay ($7.95) is a good measure of cooking skill, we opted for it; it did not disappoint. Smoky grilled chicken, which had been marinated in Thai herbs, and perfectly seared, arrived with traditional peanut sauce and a small portion of cool, freshly prepared, cucumber/onion salad.
The freshness and crunch of Summer Rolls ($7.95), steamed chicken and shrimp with mixed vegetables (carrots, cucumbers, basil leaf), wrapped in a paper-thin rice skin, was well matched with the accompanying spicy plum sauce; the simplicity of the dish belied its elegance. We are still thinking about how healthy and delicious this was.
Our favorite noodle dish was Pad Khi Mau ($16.95); a stir-fry of large, al dente, flat noodles, bell peppers, carrots, string beans, mushrooms, basil leaves, and onion in a Muang Thai spicy sauce. Diners choose which protein to add: chicken, beef, or pork; or, if vegetarian, mixed vegetables; and indicate their desired degree of “hotness” as well. This is Asian food at a more refined level than what one usually experiences; it was easy to discern the individual taste of each of the fresh ingredients and spices, even as they came together to form the dish.
A special of the evening, Pla Neung Manao ($30.95) whole lime-steamed sea bass, arrived in a novel Thai fish-shaped metal cooking pan atop a matching oval mini-cook stove which was still emitting a low flame to keep the sauce bubbling, when the dish arrived. The fragrant broth contained Thai herbs, lemon leaves, lemongrass, galangal (a ginger-like root), fresh garlic, kaffir lime juice, and a special house-made sweet and sour honey-lime sauce. Although requiring a bit of work to debone the piping hot fish, once accomplished, it provided us with generous hunks of sweet tasting meat, elevated by the complex sauce spooned over it.
What to drink at this BYO? We like Alsatian Rieslings, with moderate acidity and varying degrees of residual sugar depending on producer. Our preference is for slightly off dry, and our 2001 Trimbach Riesling, Cuvee Frederic Emile, was an excellent foil for this food, which tends to marry elements of sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and spicy into one aromatic and complex dish. We would also be happy with demi-sec Vouvrays, not-too-sweet German Rieslings, or Gruner Veltliners from Austria. Of course, nice American Imperial Pilsners, IPA Beers, or Saison/Farmhouse ales, would make excellent pairings as well.
Thai pumpkin custard ($6.95) served with a condensed coconut milk sauce, was flavorful and creamy, but the bottom was undercooked, prompting us to eat off the upper two-thirds which we enjoyed, and leave the rest untouched.
The classic Thai dessert, Sweet Mango with Coconut Sticky Rice ($9.95), was fresh and cooling; a perfect conclusion to our meal. Slices of dead-ripe mango sat alongside glutinous sweet rice; drizzled with coconut milk and a sprinkling of black sesame seeds, it was our favorite dessert.
We can’t understand how we missed this very good Thai restaurant since it has been open a few years, but now that we’ve found it, we will certainly be visiting again. Our charming server seemed genuinely concerned that we have a memorable experience, and we did. There were so many choices on the extensive menu, including a wide range of vegetarian items, that it will take a few more meals to fully explore Muang Thai’s offerings in greater depth. We look forward to doing so very soon.
The Two Bobs rate Muang Thai: Very Good.
MUANG THAI
7 East Front St.
Red Bank
732-741-9999
muangthairedbank.com
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column. Read their reviews here.
