Restaurant Review: O Bistro Francais

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The greater Red Bank Area has not been home to a true French bistro for the last three years, since chef/owner Marc Fontaine closed the small, fondly remembered, Bienvenue on the corner of Front and Wharf streets. When I heard that Chef Fontaine was back, again manning the kitchen of his latest venture, the three week-old, O Bistro Francais on Bridge Avenue in Red Bank, I was eager to visit.
The location had formerly housed Red Bank Pizza, and then Puglia; it has been redone inside, and fittingly, now has a country French feel, with a soaring ceiling in the main dining room. Bistros in France are unfussy, casual places, serving comforting and satisfying home-style cooking at moderate prices, and O Bistro is authentic in every sense of the word. It has further appeal to wine lovers, as it is BYO, and has respectable wine glasses to boot.

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Poulet Roti Frites

The front of the house is covered by the very charming co-owner Fredric Chirol, who spent many years in some of the most iconic French restaurants in New York. With these two very experienced French gentlemen at the helm, it was no surprise that both the food and service were already quite polished, and the gracious atmosphere felt well-established.
Impossible to resist, the classic Moules Marinieres ($15), steamed mussels in white wine, shallots, garlic, parsley, and chives, were sweet, plump, grit-free, virtually all open, and spot on. The substantial serving came out in a hot bowl; indeed, all of the other hot food also arrived on hot plates. Nice!
A very traditional starter of Betterave Rotie et Celery Remoulade ($11.50) was simple, but very good. Cold, roasted, julienned beets in a light vinaigrette, and celery root strands dressed with vinegar, capers, mustard, and mayonnaise; however, I would have liked the remoulade a bit creamier.
I brought two whites: 2006 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Hospice du Beaune Mersualt–Genevieres; full and fruity, but light on its feet; and a 2007 Fevre Chablis Fourchame; a nose of wet rocks, apple and citrus flavors, and a long finish. Yum.

Magret de Canard, breast of duck
Magret de Canard, breast of duck

We really enjoyed the Magret de Canard au Porto ($31). Crusty slices of perfectly rare duck breast glazed with deep red port wine sauce, and sides of wild rice, string beans and carrots; it was piquant, tender, and not chewy.
Blanc de Poulet Roule aux Epinards, Swiss Cheese and Poivron Rouge ($23) – chicken breast stuffed with spinach, Swiss cheese and red pepper – was complex and deeply flavorful without being heavy tasting.
Filet de Porc al La Moutarde ($23), ovals of pork tenderloin in creamy mustard sauce, with gratin potatoes and string beans, was juicy. Delicious, with great texture, we would have just liked a bit more bite to the mustard sauce, but that’s a minor quibble.
The true test of a great French bistro is their roasted chicken, and O Bistro delivers in spades with their Poulet Roti Frites ($21); a moist, succulent half bird and a small mountain of hot french fries, the dish provided much contentment.
The menu is quite comprehensive, but there are also nightly specials reflecting other time-honored Gaelic fare: cassoulet, coq au vin, etc. In addition to dinner, O Bistro Francais also serves a very French brunch and lunch as well.
From my cellar: 2011 M. Gassier Nostre Pais, a blend of Grenache, Carignan, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah, from the Southern Rhone, smelled like red raspberries, licorice, and leather, and was good enough for me to offer a glass to M. Chirol, who deemed it “very tasty.” It’s always daunting to offer a Frenchman wine from his own country, especially one you like that he does not know! One of my guests brought a 2012 Cameron Hughes Lot 518 California Pinot Noir, with a red fruit profile not unlike the Gassier… as big, but surprisingly well balanced. Not Burgundian in any sense, but it paired nicely with the heartier fare.
The dessert menu lists all the expected bistro treats, so diets be damned, we chose Profiteroles ($9), the light, crispy pastry dough shell atop vanilla ice cream, in place of the usual whipped cream or custard fillings, drizzled with a rich chocolate sauce; and Crème Brulee ($9), dense egg custard, flamed on top, to create a thin, crackling, burnt caramel crust. Authentic, with great mouth feel, and hard to stop eating, we really enjoyed this dessert.
French bistro dining cannot be compared to any other type of cuisine. It is comfortable, predictable in a good way; homey, but elevated. O Bistro Francais evokes warm memories of the French countryside and local eateries in small villages that are unforgettably enjoyable. It is a welcome addition to the Two River dining scene.

O Bistro Francais

15 N. Bridge Ave., Red Bank

732-852-2705

obistrofrancais.com

Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this bimonthly column. Read his reviews here.