There’s a party going on in Red Bank and you’re invited. Just call Teak, a Pan-Asian eatery on Monmouth Street and make a reservation for dinner. Eat inside, outside, downstairs or upstairs, and you can be part of the festive atmosphere.
The tropical Asian decor with a modern twist is light and airy with windows all around, and a large Buddha looking down benevolently on diners in the front room. Service was knowledgeable and attentive; our server was more than happy to explain every dish in detail. Yes, the noise level can be high, but most of the youngish, trendy crowd seems to feed off of it. The sizeable menu offers a varied assortment of hot and cold small plates, sushi and sashimi, hand rolls, noodle and rice-based items, and entrée-sized offerings as well. My guests and I enjoyed ordering a number of dishes and sharing them family-style, served two or three at a time.
We really liked the generously sized Poke Salad ($16) with its cubes of tuna, yellowtail and salmon, mixed with cucumbers, red onion, avocado slices and a dressing of sesame, soy and yuzu, and fresh greens at the bottom of the bowl which absorbed the complex flavors. The balance of textures and tastes, some gentle “heat,” and a touch of palate-cleansing acidity from that dressing made for a very enjoyable dish.
Real comfort food, two generous-sized Lotus Buns ($11), combined slow-roasted pork belly, scallions, pickled cucumber, and a hoisin glaze, wrapped in a Chinese-style steamed bun, making for a chewy, squishy exterior with a savor y meaty center. Yum.
BBQ Korean Tacos ($11), a playful take on the ubiquitous taco, was composed of grilled short ribs which had been soy marinated, kimchi (salted and fermented Napa cabbage slaw), crème fraiche and a Korean barbecue sauce. Be sure to ask for extra sauce for dipping.
From a wide variety of “Signature Rolls” offered we selected Double Agent ($16); composed of shrimp tempura, avocado, steamed shrimp on top and a mango chili sauce, it was surprisingly mildly flavored. Voo Doo Roll ($16) reconfigured the shrimp tempura and avocado, this time with spicy tuna, spicy kani (ersatz crab meat), mango, eel sauce (sweet, slightly salty), Voo Doo sauce (thick, sweet, and spicy) and soy paper, and was more unique and exhibited greater personality. Our favorite roll was the Naruto ($16); tuna, salmon, yellowtail, kani, avocado, red onion, cilantro, ponzu sauce and tobiko (flying fish roe), wrapped in thin rings of cucumber. This had a distinctive flavor and was light, refreshing and ver y refined. Highly recommended.
TEAK
64 MONMOUTH ST.
RED BANK
732-747-5775
TeakRestaurant.com
Bob Sacks, longtime and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this bimonthly column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
This article was first published in the Oct. 25-31, 2018 print edition of The Two River Times. Read more restaurant reviews here.