RATING: Very Good
We like to think of ourselves as uber-foodies who zero in on every new restaurant, pizza place, and food truck that pops up in the greater Two River area, so it was a humbling experience to be sitting in Mar Belo in Long Branch last week realizing that we had been completely unaware of this remarkable two-year old Portuguese restaurant until just recently.
How did news of this place get past us? We pondered this question as we wolfed down Ameijoas Bulhao Pato ($12), a pot of juicy clams steamed in olive oil, garlic, cilantro, and white wine, and Polvo a Espanhola ($14), lightly charred, perfectly tender, grilled whole baby octopus, with olive oil, garlic, lemon, and cilantro. Yes, this is real-deal Iberian Peninsula food, with lots of garlic, fresh seafood, and grilled meats, served up by “Chef Pedro” (aka John Paul Custodio). As we ate, we contemplated the comfortable, casually elegant dining room; there is also a barroom with tables, and an outside dining patio at the rear of the restaurant. The warmth of the smiling wait staff and their extensive knowledge of the menu and nightly specials made our visit that much more enjoyable.
Our waiter tempted us with the Ceviche Special ($14), looking all the world like a shrimp cocktail ringing a martini glass at first, but within the bowl a piquant mixture of scallops, cilantro, avocado, peppers, onion, in a tomato vinaigrette; a squeeze of lime perfected this delectable appetizer.
Only the Lulas a Vigo ($11), sautéed calamari in olive oil, garlic, white wine, and cilantro, was less than stellar, being somewhat mild and under-seasoned for our taste.
The Paelha Marinera ($29), lobster, shrimp, scallops, mussels, and clams, cooked in saffron rice was delicious; the small bay scallops remarkably sweet.
If you prefer the addition of clams, pork, and chicken, the traditional Paelha Valenciana ($29) includes them as well as the seafood.
Another finger-licking combination of shellfish was the Mariscada with Green Sauce ($29); lobster, shrimp, those marvelous scallops, mussels, and tender clams, in a garlic and parsley sauce; saffron rice served on the side. There is also a tomato-based red sauce version.
As with everything else, the portions were very generous, and provided us a take home lunch the following day.
One of the more popular dishes, Fraldinha No Churrasco ($25), grilled skirt steak with chimichurri sauce on the side, Spanish potatoes, and sautéed mixed vegetables, was thick, juicy and deeply flavorful.
We have rarely seen such a gorgeous Rack of Lamb ($29) with many more chops than in most restaurants; the rosy and juicy, grass-fed French cut roast meat, was served with a Port wine reduction. The quality of the meats should be no surprise; Paulo Barateiro, the owner of Mar Belo, also owns a meat market. This dish is highly recommended!
The wine list is not large, but offers well-chosen Portuguese and Spanish wines, as well as other selections; however, as traditionalists, we happily stayed with wines of the region. On a whim, we chose a pitcher of just-made red wine sangria ($22), and found it a refreshing aperitif; there is also a white wine version we are eager to try next time. A 2012 Conde de Alberei Albarino ($29) was a perfect pairing for the seafood; crisp and minerally, with a citrus element, it was not unlike a twist of lemon, and we love lemon on our shellfish.
Desserts included a must-try Pudim Flan ($5), a generous wedge of custard sitting in a pool of caramel sauce, with a stripe of fresh whipped cream on the side; a more textured version than the usual smooth disk, and not overly sweet either.
Serradura ($7), means “sawdust,” which is what the crushed Maria Cookie (a firm round tea biscuit) resembles, before it is blended into sweetened whipped cream and served in a small cup. This is another traditional Portuguese dessert that’s a unique experience.
Of course, Portugal is the home of Port, and Mar Belo offers a good selection of them by the glass, ranging from Ramos Pinto Tawny ($5) to 30-Year-Old Ramos Pinto ($18), to finish off your meal.
We cannot recall who made the comment in passing that inspired us to try Mar Belo, but we are truly grateful to whoever that was, as it allowed us to find our way to this noteworthy restaurant and enjoy some very good food in an appealing atmosphere, even if we were a bit late to the party!
The Two Bobs rate Mar Belo: Very Good
MAR BELO
611 Broadway
Long Branch
732-870-2222
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column.
