Trama’s Trattoria RATING: Excellent
There are well-known chefs who put their names on restaurants in boldface, but rarely cook there; then there are “working chefs,” equally talented and known, who are in their kitchens ever y night, making sure every dish going out meets with their approval. Chef Pat Trama is a true working chef; so when we heard that he was opening a new restaurant on Brighton Avenue in Long Branch, after a prolonged absence from the Two River dining scene, we were more than eager to renew our acquaintance with his distinctive Tuscan cuisine. Many people enjoyed Ama Ristorante in Atlantic Highlands and Ama at The Driftwood Beach Club in Sea Bright, his two previous ventures, so a trip to his new location, at the site of the former Tre Amici, was a must. The room is a comfortable space with soft muted colors, dim lighting, and modern décor. There is a bar area as well, where a number of patrons were enjoying a casual meal.
The menu will be familiar to Trama fans. We opted for a signature appetizer, Famous Original Mussels ($16); a generous portion in “Tomato Gravy” with toasted garlic and Brooklyn Bread. The plump, juicy mussels were set off perfectly by the zesty acidity of the fresh tomato sauce, making it obvious why this dish is so loved by so many.
The Shaved Baby Artichoke Salad ($16) is refreshingly tangy from liberal use of lemon juice, black pepper, and Parmesan Reggiano, and offers a nice crunchy mouth feel. It was a marriage made in heaven with the crisp, minerally white, 2014 Verdicchio di Matelica, Bicci ($39) which we selected from the gently priced wine list.
Our usual strategy to sample numerous entrees was almost derailed by a middle course of two pastas, which we could not stop eating, while we argued about which was better. The Orecchiette ($24), perfectly al dente, were mixed with broccoli rabe, charred garlic, red pepper flakes, and Parmesan Reggiano, creating a piquant dish that was hard to resist. However, the Penne ($24), with heirloom tomatoes, zucchini blossoms, basil leaves and the ingenious use of smoked mozzarella, was equally compelling and required second and third tastes. The winner? A split decision – both excellent.
Trattoria. Photo: B. Sacks
The Organic Scotch Salmon ($28) sat on a bed of asparagus risotto that was so seriously good that it would make a terrific meal by itself. Yes, the crusty sear on the thick slab of medium rare salmon was superb, but that gorgeous, green risotto disappeared way too fast.
Another Chef Pat classic, the Mediterranean Bronzino Filet ($31) served with tomato butter, zucchini chips and cleverly roasted whole tomatoes on the vine, is noteworthy. We enjoyed drawing the fish through the accompaniments to experience all of the flavors at the same time. Outstanding!
The Old School Veal Parmesan ($26) was indeed old school, with a rich “Jersey Red Sauce” balanced by the slightly bitter broccoli rabe, and topped with a melted mozzarella that, according to one of our companions, tasted “like it was made by someone’s Italian Grandma.”
The 14 oz. Florentine Style Ribeye ($38) is treated simply with rosemary, sage, thyme, and EVOO (extra virgin olive oil). The quality of the steak required nothing more than the perfect seasonings to bring out its richness and texture.
In a moment of weakness (madness?) we ordered yet another pasta, Rigatoni ($22); the creamy parmesan sauce, fennel sausage, Jersey tomatoes, and just shucked peas, made for an extremely satisfying dish with a lushness that was both sweet and savory.
Clearly, by this point, we had eaten way too much, and only our dedication to our mission motivated us to carry on and order two desserts. The Classic Tiramisu ($8), expresso-soaked lady fingers, sweet mascarpone, and cocoa powder was very good, but the velvety Panna Cotta ($8), a vanilla bean custard, with raspberry sauce, and fresh blackberries was impossible to leave unfinished.
We would love to see the wine list expanded to include more Italian labels, since this food would be perfect with a great Trebbiano, Sangiovese, Barbera, or Nebbiolo. Food this good deserves special wines, and we would welcome some adventuresome bottles to pair with it.
Although Trama’s Trattoria has only been open a few weeks, it is up and running as if it has been open for years, and in a way it has. With food like this, there is little doubt that this latest venture by Chef Pat Trama will become one of the Jersey Shore’s top eateries. With his attention to detail, and constant eye on every plate leaving his kitchen, it is likely to be his best creation yet.
The Two Bobs rate Trama’s Trattoria: Excellent
TRAMA’S TRATTORIA
115 Brighton Ave. Long Branch
732-222-1211
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column.
