By Bob Sacks |
Red Bank does not suffer from a lack of restaurants. It plays home to a wide-ranging variety of cuisines, from Mediterranean to Mexican, Italian to Irish, and every stripe between; but it had been missing one significant dining experience until two months ago when Bombay River opened its doors on Broad Street, at the site of the former Pho Le Vietnamese Restaurant. The long room has been graciously redecorated in soothing tones of deep green and gold, with exotic lighting fixtures and abstract artwork, making for a relaxing escape from the outside world.
The numerous small plate starters are ideal to share. We enjoyed Crispy Samosas ($7); a fried shell of wheat flour filled with seasoned roasted potatoes and peas, which was my idea of savory comfort food.
The highly addictive Lakkhnavi Papri Chat ($8), a crispy, sweet, gently spicy mélange of sweet yogurt, tamarind chutney, crispy crackers, potatoes, chick-peas, and black salt, resembled an upscale version of bhel, a wildly popular street/snack food. This was one of the dishes of the night; highly recommended.
Another appealing dish, Garlic Pepper Butter Shrimp ($10), presented shrimp cooked in butter, with green pepper, garlic, onions and curry leaves yielding a tangy, moderately spicy preparation, with each ingredient retaining its individual character, yet blending together smoothly.
Who knew cauliflower could be so interesting? Lasooni Gobi ($10) crispy – sort of – cauliflower florets, garlic, mustard seeds, and curry leaves had layers of flavor and a satisfying texture that kept luring us back until the dish was gone.
My DOTN (dish of the night) award went to an entrée of Chicken Saagwalla ($18). Tender cubes of chicken nestled in a creamy spinach purée seasoned with ginger, garlic, cumin seeds, cloves, and turmeric. The silky texture alone was compelling; when I say it was baby food for adults that’s not a criticism, it’s a compliment! Combine that sensual mouthfeel with those complex seasonings which played off one another perfectly, and the dish became irresistible. Excellent!
The Vegetable Biryani ($14) sounded simple, but was delicious and nuanced with secondary flavors. Firmly cooked basmati rice combined with a mix of vegetables: green peppers, carrots, lima beans, onions, peas, cauliflower, and seasoned with turmeric, cumin, and ginger, made this a compelling preparation. A side of cool yogurt sauce (raita) completed the presentation.
From the grill, plump, juicy Lamb Chops ($24) were marinated in yogurt and spices, perfectly cooked to medium rare, and served on a bed of sautéed onions. The blend of seasonings lent an intriguing, delicate taste of exotic spices which did not overpower the meat, and were in perfect harmony.
A wise addition to your dinner order is a Bread Basket ($14); a combination of naan, garlic, onion, and whole-wheat breads which have been cooked in a clay oven (tandoor) rendering them beautifully charred on the outside and soft and warm on the inside, perfect for tearing off pieces and dipping.
Bombay River
90 Broad St.
Red Bank
732-530-1598
BombayRiver.com
This article first appeared in the July 5 – 12, 2018 print edition of The Two River Times.