By Bob Sacks
Lower Broadway in Long Branch is finally starting to undergo a long-awaited renaissance after many years of stagnation and decline. Apartments, retail stores and a supermarket will be under construction before the year is out and other new businesses are sure to follow.
It is noteworthy that Alex DiFede and his wife Cathy had the determination and foresight to bring a fine-dining restaurant to the area just 18 months ago. The vision was to create a warm and friendly New York-style Mediterranean/American restaurant and bar fused with the vibe of the Jersey Shore, and from our recent visit, they have accomplished just that!
DiFede, a native of Sicily, has been in the restaurant/food business in the area for many years and has a deep knowledge of how to operate a destination restaurant that also serves the neighborhood.
From the regular menu, we started with an appetizer of Roasted Artichokes ($17); these long-stemmed imported beauties were cooked with grana padano cheese, panko breadcrumbs and red pepper and plated with swirls of romesco sauce; they were flavorful, tender and naturally, a bit sweet.
Grilled Octopus ($26) was equally tasty. Slow-braised Spanish octopus shared the plate with large, marinated gigante beans, a bitter greens salad and a dish of zesty chimichurri sauce for dipping. Octopus can often be tough and chewy, but this was not the case here. It was tender and juicy and the sauce was a perfect foil for it. Our entire table was enamored with the Crispy Bacon Brussels Sprouts ($16); the roasted sprouts had large chunks of sugar-cured bacon and harissa honey that elevated what is normally a pleasant side dish vegetable to center stage prominence. The generous portion demonstrated a combination of sweet and spicy flavors that kept us coming back for more.
Highly recommended! From a list of specials, we chose Sesame Tuna ($21). Thick slices of rare, panseared tuna were served over radicchio and cucumber salad and dressed with a champagne vinaigrette. The sushi-grade tuna was meaty and very tasty.
We shared a pasta as a middle course and were more than happy with Pappardelle Bolognese ($36). The broad, perfectly al dente noodles were mixed with a beef and pork blend, ricotta and grana padano. This was another very generous portion that was impossible to finish at one sitting, allowing us to take it home for lunch the next day.
The 21A Pork Chop ($52) from the specials menu featured a grilled pork chop marinated with chimichurri, then sliced and served atop butternut squash, roasted potatoes and haricot vert. This dish elevates the simple pork chop to an irresistible entrée.
Lamb Chops ($49), from free-range New Zealand lamb, dusted with Provencal spices, shared the plate with whipped potatoes and were sauced with a red wine demi-glace. The rare cook temperature was exactly as ordered and much appreciated by my guest who chose it.
Two large filets of branzino ($38) were presented with broccoli rabe, fingerling potatoes and charred lemon with a romesco sauce. The fish was moist and juicy, properly seared on the outside and totally free of bones. Very enjoyable.
One guest, who chose the Roasted Organic Chicken ($34) was very happy with her selection. Shenandoah Valley Farm chicken was served with a pomegranate reduction, whipped potatoes and farm-fresh zucchini. This was well-seasoned and the generous amount of pomegranate sauce was an ideal match.
Although there were a number of tempting desserts offered on the Dessert menu, we only had room left to try one and share it – Bomba ($14). A large ball of vanilla and chocolate ice cream with a crispy coating of chocolate was the perfect ending to this meal.
21A has a full-service bar with a large number of mixed cocktails, wines and beers. There are almost a dozen signature martinis, a wide variety of margaritas and wines and beers to suit every taste. We started with a 2018 Boulay Comtesse Sancerre for our white wine, which was rich and fruity without being sweet or heavy. Two reds were paired with the pasta and entrées: A 2016 Castellare Poggio Ai Merli, an Italian merlot, which was good but got even better with exposure to air via time in the glass, and a 2013 Marcassin pinot noir from Sonoma, which showed a perfect balance of fruit, tannin and acidity; a delicious glass of wine!
The service was very professional, while also being prompt, warm and caring.
The interior of the restaurant is elegantly appointed and has high ceilings and well-placed lighting, which add to the fine dining experience. It is high-end but still casual. There is also live music on certain nights of the week… inquire.
There is little doubt that 21A on Broadway is just ahead of the curve and is an asset not only to the redevelopment of the Lower Broadway area, which it serves, but it will also draw clientele from afar who will come to enjoy the relaxing, elegant ambiance and the very good Mediterranean food and drink.
21A BROADWAY 202 BROADWAY LONG BRANCH 21AONBROADWAY.COM
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
