Photo by Linda Sacks
By Bob Sacks
Hanukkah, the Festival of Lights celebrated by Jews all over the world, begins at sundown Sunday, Dec. 22 this year. The word “Hanukkah” means “dedication,” signifying the rededication of the Temple in Jerusalem by the Maccabees, a small band of Jews who reclaimed the Temple after it had been occupied by the Syrian Greeks who ruled Jerusalem in 165 B.C.
According to the Talmud, when the Maccabees went to relight the Temple’s menorah, they found only enough olive oil to keep the candles burning for a single day. Miraculously, the flames continued flickering for eight nights, leaving them time to find a fresh supply. This wondrous event inspired the Jewish sages to proclaim a yearly eight-day festival.
Hanukkah is celebrated at home with family – lighting the candles, singing songs, playing games and eating potato latkes (pancakes) and other foods fried in oil. Children receive gifts and foil-wrapped chocolate coins (gelt). Dairy foods, such as noodle kugel – a mixture of egg noodles, eggs, sour cream, raisins and cinnamon – are often served along with fish dishes and vegetable soups.
Joan Nathan, the American cookbook author and expert on Jewish cuisine, has noticed that “designer latkes” are trending today. In her highly regarded cookbook, “Jewish Cooking in America,” she includes recipes for Crispy Traditional Potato Pancakes along with Zucchini Parmesan Latkes, Curried Sweet Potato Latkes and Carrot and Parsnip Latkes. When it comes to latkes, chefs can be as creative as they like!
If you do not have time to grate and fry your own potatoes, don’t worry. Head over to Sickles Market or Whole Foods to pick up some house-made latkes that everyone will enjoy almost as much as the potato pancakes Grandma used to make. Be sure to call in advance as quantities are limited. In addition to the latkes, Sickles will also have special jelly doughnuts from New York which are rumored to be divine.
Serve warm latkes with sides of applesauce and sour cream or whatever suits your taste. Smoked salmon topped with a dollop of sour cream and a sprig of fresh dill is delicious on latkes. One year, friends waited until it was too late to order fresh latkes, so they rushed to Trader Joe’s to pick up a few boxes of their frozen potato pancakes. These were tasty and satisfying, but be sure not to bake them too long.
Whole Foods has embraced Hanukkah big time this year and is offering a complete take-home dinner created by the famous Philadelphia chef Michael Solomonov of Zahav’s restaurant. Chicken Schnitzel (matzo-crusted, fried chicken cutlets) with Apple Amba Sauce (savory pickled apples instead of the usual green mangoes), twice-cooked, sweet-and-sour charred eggplant and red bell peppers, green beans with mushrooms, lentils and tehina sauce, and crispy leek and potato cakes.
Other traditional foods served at the dinner table are meats such as brisket of beef, everyone’s favorite, matzo ball soup, and a variety of fall vegetables.
No matter what holidays your family is celebrating this winter, food will surely be a large part of the festivities. If you’ve never tried some of these dishes, it might be fun to explore this traditional Hanukkah cuisine. It’s very tasty!
One year, Hanukkah fell on Thanksgiving. To celebrate both holidays, many families ate sweet potato latkes with their turkey. This recipe substitutes sweet potatoes for white potatoes for a delicious alternative:
SWEET POTATO LATKES
Makes about 26 pancakes
Ingredients:
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated
2 scallions, finely chopped
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper 3/4 cup vegetable oil
Directions:
Mix together all of the ingredients except the oil.
Heat two tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet until a shred of potato dropped in sizzles. Drop tablespoons of potato mixture into the hot oil and cook until brown. Flip over and cook the other side. Do not crowd latkes as they cook.
Place cooked latkes on paper towels to drain.
After the first batch is ready, heat a little more oil and drop more potato mixture into the skillet. Latkes can be cooked in advance and warmed up in the oven at 350 for 6-8 minutes. Serve with applesauce and sour cream.
Recipe adapted from epicurious.com.
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in his Two River Times column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
This article first appeared in the Dec. 19, 2019 edition of the Two River Times.
