CORBO & SONS OSTERIA

It’s not all bad news. In the midst of numerous restaurant closings and severe cutbacks in the hospitality industry due to the crushing effects of the COVID pandemic, fans of Corbo & Sons, a fast-food restaurant located in Bell Works, Holmdel, can rejoice, since there is now a newly opened, second location in Shrewsbury at Shrewsbury Village – Corbo & Sons Osteria. This was formerly the site of the Europa Grill.

Not only do they offer their very popular assortment of pizzas and pastas, the essence of the original site, but they have added appetizers and entrees as well, to create a complete menu. They have indoor seating and takeout, with outside dining planned for the spring when weather permits. We chose to order our dinner to go.

With so many appealing appetizers to choose from, we decided to order them all! We couldn’t resist the Golden Beet Salad ($15) with pistachio gremolata (minced parsley, garlic and lemon), citrus vinaigrette and ricotta; nice cubes of sweet, crunchy beets, balanced by the lively counterpoint of acidity from the vinaigrette and creaminess of ricotta.

Eggplant Crocchetti ($14) consisted of three large, round croquettes of well-seasoned eggplant and arrived with a rustic tomato sugo (sauce) on the side, with basil and pecorino. They were crisp on the outside, and soft and juicy on the inside; I dubbed them “eggplant meatballs.”

Another vegetable-based appetizer, Mushroom Grigliata ($16), featured grilled local mushrooms, Italian vinaigrette, lemon and whipped ricotta. The grilling gave the mushrooms an enjoyable, meaty texture, the ricotta providing a touch of richness for balance. A must for mushroom lovers.

We really liked the Spicy Tuna Toast ($18) presented as a generous portion of cubes of rosy, sushi-grade tuna, seasoned with Calabrian chili, lemon, crispy garlic and shallots, and toast, it had some pleasant zip to enliven it, but was not overly spicy. Recommended.

Meatballs ($16), good-sized globes, made with a traditional blend of veal and pork, served with ricotta and a chunky Pomodoro sauce with basil, and a side of toasted bread, was a very good rendition of this classic dish and made for a satisfying appetizer, but could also serve as a side dish.

We really enjoyed the Cauliflower Appetizer ($14); crispy florets with pickled golden raisins and pignolia nuts and a creamy lemon mascarpone dipping sauce, was another well-prepared appetizer that could also do double duty as a shared side dish with an entree.

From the Pasta offerings, the Cacio e Pepe ($19), which substituted home-made ricotta gnocchi in place of the usual spaghetti or tonnarelli, and then finished with classic pecorino cheese and black pepper, was an interesting variation. The gnocchi were firm and chewy, a bit dense to my liking, but the dish was very flavorful, nonetheless.

Ravioli ($22), filled with local ricotta and mascarpone for added creaminess, came in that tasty rustic tomato sauce (sugo). The taste of this evoked images of a traditional Sunday dinner in an Italian home. Comfort food!

From the Pizza section of the menu, the White Rosemary Pizza ($22), with local ricotta, rosemary, caramelized onions and garlic, was crusty and very flavorful. Having a fondness for white pizzas, and eaten them up and down the East Coast, we were eager to taste this rendition, and it did not disappoint.

We also selected Pizza Nonno ($22); local mozzarella, pomodoro sauce, grana padano cheese (parmigiana-like) and Sicilian oregano, was an excellent version of a traditional-style pizza; good, chewy crust and just the right amount of toppings made for a memorable eating experience. There was a nice balance of all the ingredients.

For dessert, the Olive Oil Cake ($11), a vanilla chiffon cake with whipped mascarpone and a fresh citrus compote, was pleasantly dense and moist, but not at all heavy. A good dessert to share; give it a try.

The Sicilian Cheesecake ($10), with Jersey Girl Ricotta, jam and whipped cream, was another light but satisfying way to top off the meal.

This new location is BYOB, so you are free to select your own wines to complement this authentic, homestyle cuisine. I would consider a Vermentino or Etna Bianco for an interesting white to pair; and for reds, a Sicilian such as Nerello Mascalese or Nero d’Avola or a Barbera d’Asti from the Piedmont. Your local wine merchant should be able to help you find these, or something similar.

It is apparent from the menu, the restaurant makes generous use of locally grown and produced ingredients as much as possible, ensuring freshness and also supporting small, local food producers. It is referred to as the locavore movement and is to be applauded.

Happily, the best of the Corbo & Sons menu from their Bell Labs location has successfully traveled to this new location and has been revised and updated to allow for a more complete dining experience. The fact that this new addition to the local food scene has taken place during a time of turmoil and uncertainty in the restaurant business is uplifting news. If you have enjoyed the offerings from their fast-food format in Holmdel, you should really like this expansion into full-fledged dining in Shrewsbury.

CORBO & SONS OSTERIA

555 SHREWSBURY AVE.

SHREWSBURY

Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.

This article originally appeared in the Feb. 17, 2022 print edition of The Two River Times.