By Bob Sacks
The last year has not been a normal time for almost everything and reviewing restaurants as I did before is one area that still does not seem logical, or even fair, to pursue. Not only did most eateries pare down their menus, but many worked with a greatly reduced support staff in order to cut overhead expenses just to survive. More than a few had to pivot from mainly indoor dining to takeout, and it took some of them time to master the learning curve to do so.
In fact, I utilized far more delivery and curbside pickup of food than dining alfresco, or actually sitting inside a restaurant. A strong desire to support our local restaurants in a stress-free way and take a welcome break from dealing with getting groceries and meal preparation led me to choose from the online menus of a number of restaurants I had previously reviewed, and explore some of those I had not.
Since last March, a number of dishes stood out as being memorable. Bear in mind that it is not easy to create a dish, package it in an appealing way, and ensure that it will travel well, not be overcooked, arrive too cold or warm, or get jostled in transit. So kudos to those places that have mastered takeout food.
In no particular order, here are a few of my most enjoyable dishes from the past year.
D’Jeet, Route 35 in Shrewsbury, offers a fresh, creative menu with daily specials, but I always include at least one order of their Local Fish Tacos (Market Price). Instead of the traditional taco shell, these arrive with large, crispy Bibb lettuce cups in which you build your taco with chunks of the catch of the day, often mahi-mahi, and then add cabbage slaw, chipotle aioli, avocado, a savory black bean and quinoa salad, and enjoy with their tortilla crisps for crunch on the side. Delish!
Although I enjoy their entire menu, Trama’s Trattoria, Brighton Avenue in Long Branch, has two signature appetizer dishes which are my perennial favorites:
Mussels ($19) in a rich tomato “gravy,” with roasted garlic, basil leaves, and “Brooklyn” Bread: the generous portion of large, plump mussels, and hunks of addictive bread are a must have. The Baby Artichoke Salad ($19), which features shaved artichoke hearts, lemon juice, extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO), black pepper, and curls of shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese on top, is a refreshing starter that really sparks my appetite!
Patricia’s of Holmdel on Route 35, offers a large portion of chilled Seafood Salad ($22), featuring sparkling fresh pieces of tender octopus, shrimp, and calamari, with diced celery, red peppers, garlic, fresh parsley, EVOO and lemon juice, making for a very special appetizer that I turn to frequently.
Sogo Sushi, Monmouth Street in Red Bank, has many intriguing dishes, but they get my vote for their Yam Yam Noodles ($7.95). These gluten-free noodles, which look like spaghetti, are made with yam flour, not wheat or grain; they are low in calories, lightly sauced and flat-out delicious. When paired with their Veggie Delight ($14.95), stir-fried Japanese eggplant, crunchy string beans, and zucchini, in a tasty brown sauce, the combination is irresistible.
A tasty starter alternative to traditional meatballs are the Eggplant Meatballs ($12) from Victory Park Tavern, River Road in Rumson. Yes, they are vegetarian, but they are juicy and flavorsome, even if you eat meat! They arrive in a spicy, but not-too hot, heirloom tomato sauce, topped with shaved asiago cheese.
Yumi in Red Bank (Broad Street) and Sea Bright (Ocean Avenue), both offer takeout dishes I am quite fond of: Pan Seared Rice Crispy Tuna ($18). A thumb-sized, rectangle of crunchy seared rice, supports raw sushi-grade tuna and is topped with a sliver of jalapeno. The textures of silky and crispy, and the flavors of lush fish and spice, all come together in a can’t-stop-eating way. I also really liked the Tuna Sashimi Pizza ($16): a crispy scallion pancake, covered with red, sushi-grade tuna, and their signature kabayaki sauce (teriyaki-like, with soy and mirin as a base). Once again, the textures create a wonderful mouthfeel.
Speaking of pizza, dare I mention a couple of the more mainstream pizzas I enjoyed over the past year? I know everyone has their favorite pizzerias and pies, and this brief list may or may not include yours, but I found these to be unusual and quite tasty. Lupo, River Road in Fair Haven, does a unique, Detroit-style Pizza, ($11) which has a thicker, chewy, crispy crust, done in a rectangular shape, with the tomato sauce on top, over the other ingredients, not underneath. Ask for it well done. Thin crust devotees need not apply! Different also is the Cauliflower Pizza ($15) from Gianni’s Little Silver. This is the polar opposite. It is a cracker-like crust, super-thin, and crunchy. Not to replace your typical pizza, but an interesting change of pace, and a low-carb one at that!
This is just a short list of some of my favorite takeout foods from the past year. There were a number of other restaurants and dishes that were also memorable and worthy of mention. I will revisit some of those others in a separate article, in the near future, and hopefully, will be back to reviewing restaurants indoors as soon as circumstances allow!
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this column, which he will resume when COVID-19 safety guidelines allow. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
The article originally appeared in the March 11 – 17, 2021 print edition of The Two River Times.
