By Bob Sacks
An interesting variation of a Japanese dish, the Miso Black Cod was plated with parmesan broth and zucchini and squash noodles.
Location, location, location! The Two River area is blessed with an abundance of waterfront settings, encompassing an ocean, two rivers and a bay. Many restaurants are able to take advantage of this, but none seemingly as much as One Willow.
Situated at 1 Willow St., Highlands, directly on Sandy Hook Bay, with expansive views of the New York City skyline, passing Seastreak ferries and pleasure boats, a seat outside there is like being away on vacation. Yes, there are tables and a large bar inside, but the draw is the large outdoor dining and bar areas which encompass the side and back of the building. Add in a selection of live music on Sunday,
Monday and Tuesday evenings, and the effect is truly transportive. Happily, the food and drinks stand up to the formidable competition from the scenery.
The menu is an eclectic mix of a number of cuisines: classic seafood, Mexican, Japanese and Italian. There is a broad selection of raw bar offerings – oysters, clams, shrimp and crab – from which we selected six East Coast Sloop Oysters (minimum three/MP). They had run out of West Coast oysters, which we were seeking for purpose of comparison, but these fresh, briny and sweet bivalves, from nearby Barnegat Bay were delicious and satisfying by themselves.
We also opted for a starter of Octopus ($20), which was plated with Calabrian chili potatoes, fennel, fried capers and a saffron beurre blanc sauce. The potatoes here were quite reminiscent of papas bravas, that spicy Spanish dish, and lent a zippy contrast to the tender, mildly sweet taste and texture of the seared octopus tentacle.
Tuna Tacos ($18), three to an order consisted of local tuna, served in wonton shells, with siracha mayonnaise, wasabi ponzu and shaved napa cabbage. They were good, but not remarkable. The crunch of the wontons was the best element of this dish, which had an overabundance of mayonnaise and cabbage, masking the tuna texture and flavor.
Our favorite appetizer, the Mexican Street Corn ($14), arrived as a nicely charred, large ear of corn on the cob, lightly coated with mayonnaise, lime juice, cotija (Mexican cow’s milk cheese), Tajin (Mexican chili pepper and lime seasoning), cilantro, and Valentina (Mexican hot sauce). One would expect the use of multiple pepper-based condiments would have made for an overly spicy result, but their deft use created just enough well-integrated zip to make for memorable taste. Could be split into two portions for sharing, but would need to be done in the kitchen. Not inexpensive, but worth it.
From the entrée section of the menu, Veal Tortellini ($32) made for a perfect dish to share as a middle course. Al dente tortellini, in a veal brodo, with roasted pearl onions, fried rosemary and sage, was meaty, savory and satisfying.
I can never resist ordering Miso Black Cod ($38) whenever I find it on a menu, having first thoroughly enjoying it at Nobu in New York, and again at a local Japanese restaurant. Here, instead of marinating the cod in mirin and sake and serving in a spicy miso sauce, the generous chunk of sweet fish is served in a parmesan broth, with zucchini and squash noodles, oyster mushrooms and orange marmalade, making an interesting and tasty variation.
Fresh Atlantic Tuna ($37); slices of seared, rare, local bluefin tuna, served with cold ramen noodles, spicy peanut sauce, edamame, radish, carrot, scallion and cilantro, was light and fresh-tasting, only wanting a bit more seasoning to liven it up and make it truly special. It is an excellent choice for those seeking a super-healthy entrée.
A very juicy roasted organic chicken breast sat atop tasty pineapple kimchi fried rice.
For folks not wanting seafood, the Roasted Chicken ($30) was very enjoyable. An organic chicken breast, plated with baby bok choy, and pineapple kimchi fried rice, was juicy and perfectly cooked. Comfort food!
Be sure to ask your server for the nightly specials as there are usually a couple available.
There is a nice selection of wines by the glass, beers and ciders, and unique cocktails. An Oaxaca Old Fashioned ($14), a trendy reinvention of the classic, bourbon-based cocktail, was made from reposado tequila, mezcal, agave syrup and mole bitters, and was a perfect aperitif on this sultry summer night. We also opted for a glass of 2019 Foucher-Le Brun Sancerre Le Mont ($16/glass; 62/bot- tle), which had lots of fruit and acidity to pair nicely with the varied foods.
Our server was warm and friendly, and the kitchen got our food out at a pace commensurate with the new, pandemic normal, which means… leisurely, but as best as they could during this time of a shortage of available workers front and back of house.
Note: If you pay by credit card, don’t be surprised when the bill arrives and you have been charged a 1.95% “Transaction Fee” regardless of which card you use. We had not been forewarned; but now, you have.
Take advantage of the remaining warm weather and “escape” to Highlands. Sitting outside at One Willow, with the sun setting on the water, watching the passing sailboats, and feeling the warm bay breezes will make you feel like you are far from home at a tropical resort, while you relax and enjoy their multinational, mostly seafood-based menu.
1 WILLOW ST.
HIGHLANDS
732-730-7770
ONEWILLOWHIGHLANDS.COM
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
This article originally appeared in the Aug. 26, 2021 print edition of The Two River Times.
