We often need to choose between fine dining restaurants and causal, local eateries when deciding where to have dinner in the Two River area. Each category has its merits, and depending on our mood, day of the week and occasion, we select one or the other.
Now, Little Buca, a new restaurant in Little Silver, has found the way to prepare and serve fine Italian food in an unpretentious, warm and relaxed setting. Indeed, the storefront location in a small strip mall would argue against haute gourmet cuisine, but once inside the chic, stylish dining room, and reading the menu, it is apparent that this place has created a niche category of its own. The chef is from Sicily and has worked in high-end New York City Italian restaurants.
There is a regular menu as well as a nightly specials list. From the Appetizer (Antipasti) selections, we opted for Tuna Crudo ($38). Slices of sushi grade tuna were lightly seared on the outside and perfectly raw in the middle and sat upon paper-thin slices of orange over a bed of arugula. The simple dressing of olive oil and lemon allowed the flavor of the fish to be front and center, with the orange providing some nice acidity.
Sicilian Salad ($32) combined chopped fennel, pieces of orange, olives and red onion, in a tasty dressing, surrounded by paper-thin slices of prosciutto. The generous portion was large enough for two to share.
Long slices of rolled-up eggplant were stuffed with a cheese filling, providing the basis for the Eggplant Rollatini ($28). These were then covered with a rich tomato sauce, baked until tender and juicy, and dressed with a bit of melted mozzarella. The sauce had complexity and depth, but was not heavy, which suggested it had received a long, slow cook. Recommended.
There were other interesting-sounding appetizers on the menu which also tempted us, but we knew we had main courses on the way. Impepata di Cozze e Gamberi ($38), sauteed mussels and shrimp with white wine, parsley and garlic, is on our list for a return visit, as is the Vongole Al Forno ($38), baked clams with seafood salad.
We did not get to try any of the pasta selections. There is only so much food four people can eat at one time, so the Lobster Ravioli ($46) with a truffle cream sauce and the Trofie Artisan Pasta ($44) with broccoli rabe, cheese and parsley sausage, and truffles are on our next-visit list as well.
An entrée special of Red Snapper ($64) was plated with halved cherry tomatoes, slices of wild mushrooms and jumbo shrimp. The very large portion was bathed in a tasty sauce which allowed the delicate flavor of the fish to shine through.
Whole Branzino ($58), deboned by the chef, was simply sauced with white wine, olive oil and lemon and shared the plate with carrots and broccoli. The filet was meaty and tender and perfectly cooked.
One of our guests opted for the Pork Chop ($68) served with a covering of hot cherry peppers, which lent some zip, and broccoli rabe. The very large chop was thick and nicely cooked through but still very juicy and flavorful. He really enjoyed it.
There were other appealing entrée offerings on the Specials Menu which competed for our attention, but we had to defer trying them until a return visit. Osso Bucco ($88); the Veal served with Risotto Milanese and Lamb Chops ($72), done with a sauce made from a Barolo wine reduction, both sounded very tasty.
Little Buca is BYO, and it seemed appropriate to bring Sicilian wines to pair with this food. The white we chose was a 2021 Donnafugatta Anthilia Sicilia made from the inzolia grape; crisp and refreshing, it still had enough body to stand up to the variety of foods without being heavy. For a red wine, we brought a 2018 Azienda Agricola Cos Frappato, from the grape of same name; it was rich and intense, not a complex, multilayered wine, but rather a fruit-driven one that was easy to drink and nicely complemented the dishes, even the branzino!
Desserts are prepared in house, and we were drawn to the Nocciola Truffle ($12), described to us as a cylinder of vanilla ice cream, filled with toasted hazelnuts and a dusting of them on top. The cool and crunchy presentation was large enough for hazelnut-lovers to share. We also gave in to the house-made Tiramisu ($15); a large square with a rich, creamy texture which was based on a traditional recipe. We were not disappointed! Also listed but not tasted were Nutella Cheesecake and Cannoli. There are dessert platters available as well, small (serving four) $45 and large (for six) $65.
Service was relaxed, but very warm and knowledgeable, without being intrusive.
Please note that the restaurant is cash only. There is an ATM located on premises for backup if a patron did not realize the policy.
It was a pleasure to experience a rather unique blend of a casual but stylish restaurant, that is serving high-end Italian cuisine in a unpretentious strip mall. Little Buca has created its own definition of dining out, and it makes for a very enjoyable change of pace in all respects.
Little Buca, 125 Markham Place, Little Silver 732-741-1900
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
The article originally appeared in the March 9 – 15, 2023 print edition of The Two River Times.
