By Bob Sacks
It can be a risky bet to try a brand-new restaurant in the first few weeks after opening. The menu is still being tweaked, the kitchen doesn’t have its rhythm yet, and the service is often far from polished. That said, I decided to take a chance on the less-than-a-month-old Gabriella’s Steakhouse in Middletown, since it was a new venture from an experienced group of pros who also own the popular Patricia’s of Holmdel; thus my curiosity outweighed my caution.
Not only did Gabriella’s defy the odds, but our visit there was a solid winner. The restaurant occupies the site of the former Bonefish Grill in the shopping center that houses Whole Foods in Middletown, and once seated inside the softly lit, tastefully appointed interior, all memories of the former tenant were quickly gone from mind. There is no question that even though the vibe of the room is casual and fun, the intentions of the chef are serious and upscale. Billed as an Italian steakhouse, the broad variety of unique and interesting offerings goes far beyond that label. The charming and cordial owners, Frank Brusco and Gabriella Varshavsky, walked the front of the house visiting every table more than once during the meal, ensuring everyone was enjoying themselves.
Lobster Cake ($18), with Calabrian chile, charred tomatoes, and arugula, was a novel and tasty variation on the oft seen crabcake offerings. Lots of lobster and minimal filler, made this special.
Chunks of nicely seared Octopus ($18) with Carrot Romesco Sauce (roasted carrot puree with garlic and almonds), dressed with lemon and caperberry, were properly tender and juicy.
A sparkling fresh Tuna Tartare, a mound of diced ruby-red tuna sitting atop a cylinder of creamy avocado, was fresh and flavorful, but marred by over-salting.
Appetizer of the night award went to the unique Razor Clams ($10), roasted, plated with cooked cherry tomatoes, basil and white wine. One very large clam constitutes one order, so two orders for myself and three guests was a reasonable amount for a nice taste; however, it was so good that I could have had an entire one by myself. Go for it!
All pastas are made in-house. We really enjoyed the Bucatini and Clams ($28); perfectly al dente strands of black pasta were tossed with white wine, charred cherry tomatoes and lots of little neck clams in the shell.
A pasta special of the night, Cresto De Gallo, with red pesto (Fresno pepper, walnuts and parmesan) and hunks of sweet blue crabmeat, was indeed special. The unusually shaped curved pasta with a ruffled edge, meant to resemble a rooster’s crest, and its satisfying flavor profile made this memorable.
Crispy Calabrian Chicken ($25) with zippy Calabrian chili and roasted white and green asparagus, was moist and juicy.
One guest had nothing but raves for the pistachio-crusted Rack of Lamb ($35); tender and rare, served over kale and spinach puree, with Barolo jus, it was spot-on.
A generous 14-ounce Bone-In Filet Mignon ($55) of high quality was a minute or two past medium rare as requested, but still very delicious.
There is a full bar, and a gently priced wine list, with many familiar names, including a few trophy bottles. A reliable rosé, 2018 Whispering Angel ($48), was a perfect summer quencher; flavors of stone fruits, refreshing acidity, and a hint of sweetness made this a good pairing with the appetizers. An Italian red, 2015 Bruno Giacosa Barbera d’Alba ($55), was good, but needed more time; even with decanting, it did not start to smooth out and show its cherry and black fruits until late into the meal…then it really came on.
Two side dishes were memorable. The Heirloom Carrots ($8) roasted whole until tender, in a citrus ginger glaze with rosemary, and the roasted Brussels sprouts ($10) with pancetta, Honeycrisp apples and orange blossom honey, were novel and could make a vegetable lover out of the staunchest carnivore.
The in-house pastry chef is very talented. A whimsical Ice Cream Trio ($14) showcased three mini-cones with a choice of house-made gelatos, and three silver cups of toppings to sprinkle or dip (hazelnuts, candy “beads,” cocoa powder).
Sweet Peach Olive Oil Cake ($14), layered with cream cheese icing and Lemon Basil Olive Oil Gelato was sinfully addictive.
Yes, a new restaurant can suffer from slow service, ill-conceived dishes and many other stumbles in the opening weeks until they hit their stride, but we experienced none of those issues at Gabriella’s. Based on the food and service, it felt like it had been up and running very smoothly far longer than just 30 days. The odds on this bet are definitely in favor of the diners.
Gabriella’s Italian Steakhouse
447 Route 35
Red Bank
732-456-6699
Gabriellasnj.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
