By Bob Sacks
Is this time the charm? Over the last dozen years or so, there have been a plethora of restaurants housed one after another at 1132 Ocean Ave. in Sea Bright. All started out with high hopes, but closed up shop after relatively brief runs due to various shortcomings. I have to think that the newest tenant, Ocean Avenue Kitchen (OAK), open since Thanksgiving, has the best shot at growing some roots and becoming a regular fixture on the Sea Bright dining scene. The bright and airy room, gracious owner and staff, desire to please, and well prepared, tasty, contemporary comfort food, all bode well for this newcomer.
Octopus ($14) was marinated and grilled; tender tentacles presented simply on a bed of field greens with lemon and EVOO demonstrated that a few good ingredients can make for a satisfying appetizer.
The kitchen showed off its creativity with Shrimp Sugo ($12); four nice-sized sautéed shrimp, with pancetta, cremini mushrooms, grape tomatoes, garlic, shallots, herbs and a touch of brandy, all in a cream sauce atop pieces of crostini. If you like shrimp and a lush, creamy sauce, give this innovative dish a try.
The Crispy Eggplant ($10) was simple in appearance, but the flavors quite complex. Discs of marinated eggplant, coated with seasoned flour, were pan- fried with fresh rosemary and clover honey. I still don’t know how the chef achieved that crackly, crunchy exterior, but it made for a very enjoyable take on the humble eggplant; a nice change of pace from the usual tomato sauce presentations.
Photo by Bob Sacks
A plate of Roasted Vegetables ($12), once again showed off the ability of the kitchen to make a very satisfying dish using a few good ingredients, perfectly cooked. The artful presentation of perfectly seasoned asparagus spears, carrots, cauliflower, turnips and cubes of red beets, was plated with a balsamic reduction. The sweetness of the vegetables enhanced by roasting, and an al dente cook time, made for great flavors and mouthfeel.
A traditional preparation of Clams and Chorizo ($12), combined sautéed littleneck clams, chorizo, garlic, shallots and cilantro, in a white wine broth. The generous portion of tender, juicy clams was grit-free and most enjoyable.
Classic Caesar Salad ($10); crispy Romaine lettuce, shaved Parmesan cheese, garlicky croutons, and house-made Caesar dressing, was crispy and fresh. As delicious as it was, we would have preferred a bit less dressing.
How could we not try both engagingly named soups? Five Lilly ($8), a blend of Spanish red onion, shallots, leeks, and garlic, topped with melted Gruyere cheese, is OAK’s take on classic onion soup. I found the Oak Chowder ($10), more interesting; locally harvested clams, celery, onion, bacon, potatoes, clam broth and half-and-half, came together as a New England-style chowder. Savory and rich, it was almost a meal in itself.
Be prepared to share the generous portion of Rigatoni Grappa ($22). Toothsome pasta was tossed with sautéed hot and sweet Italian sausage and mushrooms, and mixed in a grappa marinara sauce, with a trace of cream.
Roast Chicken ($24), was straight over-the-plate comfort food: moist half a chicken, grilled asparagus, whipped potatoes and pan au jus.
Photo by Bob Sacks
I liked the Grilled Pork Chop ($34); not-too-sweet homemade applesauce, roasted potatoes, and those tasty roasted root vegetables, in a light port wine sauce, was perfectly juicy. Charred lightly on the outside and tender on the inside, it was a standout.
Four fat, Seared Sea Scallops ($28) were cooked to perfection, and plated with sautéed spinach, Israeli couscous, and a savory red pepper coulis. Pretty to look at and even better to eat!
OAK is BYO, so from our ever-present “bring along basket,” we selected an unusual white: 2013 Evening Land Seven Springs Summum Chardonnay. This Oregon beauty was far more Burgundian than the usual high alcohol Cali offerings; rich, but with just enough acidity for balance, and a good long finish, it paired perfectly with all the appetizers. One of my guests was feeling very expansive, and treated us to a 2001 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon. This mailing-list only California red was a bit reticent at first, but after decanting and lots of air, it started to open and just kept getting better. Rich red fruits, a touch of acidity, velvety mouthfeel, and long finish, made it very special!
Homemade Rice Pudding ($8) with berries and cinnamon was soothing and tasty. Chocolate Mousse Cake ($8) was properly decadent; a little bit went a long way!
If you are seeking a new go-to restaurant that serves comfy, tasty food, in a warm and easy setting, Ocean Avenue Kitchen is a good choice. All the elements are in place for this newest occupant of 1132 Ocean Ave. to go the distance and become an enduring source of pleasure for Two River diners.
Ocean Avenue Kitchen
1132 Ocean Ave.
Sea Bright
732-747-5200
oakseabright.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this bimonthly column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
