By Bob Sacks
One minute we were standing on the side of Route 35 in Eatontown watching cars whizzing by on a misty Friday night, and the next minute we were warmly ensconced inside an upscale, cozy Greek taverna. Once we crossed the threshold into Olive and Ivy, a recently launched Greek restaurant, it was like being transported into another dimension and place. The spacious, softly-lit, and tastefully decorated rooms, with tables set far apart, was in sharp contrast to the harsh reality of the outside world. We were greeted warmly by the hostess who settled us in, and welcomed by our server, who presented us with a large and varied menu.
From the Mezze Section (tapas-like appetizer dishes best enjoyed shared), the simply named Spreads ($15), a sampler of hummus, roasted eggplant, tzatziki (strained yogurt, cucumber, and herbs), and creamy, spicy, feta cheese, served with warm, house-made pita triangles, was a good starter.
Saganaki ($12), a flour-dusted, pan-seared square of kefalograviera cheese (sheep and goat milk), with lemon and olive oil, arrived aflame…a very dramatic presentation! Worth the visual spectacle alone, it was akin to a grilled cheese sandwich minus the bread.
Crumbled feta cheese, with pickled onions, olive oil and sea salt, dressed a salad of thick slices of Roasted Golden Beets ($9). The contrasting textures and flavors played off one another nicely, but I would have preferred a little less vinegar in the pickling, as vinegar is not a friend of wine.
A favorite of the table, Feta Phyllo ($10), cheese wrapped and baked in phyllo dough, topped with honey and sesame seeds, was lightly crisped on the outside and softly lush on the inside, creating a very addictive mouthfeel and satisfying taste.
A plate of Keftedes ($11), blended lamb and beef meatballs, served with feta tzatziki, and a unique house-made tomato jam, was an interesting variation of a classic dish.
Although the Scallop Ceviche ($10), with lime juice, cilantro, onion, capers, olives, and EVOO, artfully served in a martini glass, was impeccably fresh and tender, there was an excessive amount of marinade, which over whelmed the delicate scallops.
Spanakopita ($8), also house made, featuring triangles of flaky phyllo encasing feta, spinach, leeks, and dill, was an excellent rendition of this classic Greek dish, and is highly recommended.
My favorite of these Mezze was the Grilled Octopus ($18); tender tentacles were perfectly paired with horiatiki (Greek salad of tomatoes, cucumber, onion, olives, and feta cheese), and garnished with gremolata (chopped parsley, garlic, and grated lemon zest). All these elements came together to showcase the octopus in perfect harmony. Yum!
A pleasant surprise from the “Comfort” section of the menu, Roasted Vegetarian Eggplant ($16), topped with ratatouille, fresh herbs, and melted cheese, was deeply satisfying, and would be a fine choice as a main dish for those who don’t eat meat, or an interesting side dish for those who do. The traditional Moussaka ($16), layers of eggplant, savor y ground beef, and potato, baked with a bechamel sauce and grated Romano cheese, was very well-executed and indeed, “comfort” food!
My guests also enjoyed marinated Shish Kabob Chicken ($15), with a salad of lettuce, tomato, olive, red onion, cucumber, and tzatziki. The French fries served with it were off the charts! Addictive!
Moist Lamb Yerros ($15), slow rotisserie roasted meat, thinly sliced, in a pita wrap, served with chopped salad, was juicy and tender.
Happily, this is a BYO restaurant. We started with a 2012 Massican Annia, a white blend from Napa, California. An unusual mix of 46 percent ribolla gialla, 36 percent tocai friulano, and 10 percent chardonnay, this New World homage to Italian varietals had a complex nose of apples and citrus, a rich palate, and plenty of crisp acidity to keep it refreshing. Perfectly mature 1996 Remirez de Ganuza Rioja Reserva, a Spanish red, was soft and silky, richly fruity, without being sweet, and showed no signs of early aging. We really loved this wine made from the tempranillo grape.
The classic dessert which I dare you to pronounce, unless you are of Greek heritage, Galaktobouriko ($8), creamy semolina custard, wrapped in buttery phyllo pastry, and bathed with a luscious sugar/honey syrup, is a must. Delicious!
We also really liked the Ravani ($7), a moist, orange-flavored semolina cake, glazed with honey.
Not to be missed as well, the Baklava ($8), layers of phyllo, with chopped walnuts and honey, was a worthy finale to a very good meal.
It took a moment or two after we walked back outside from Olive and Ivy to realize that we had been “away” during dinner, and had lost all sense of place, such was the transportive experience of the delicious food, warm atmosphere, and soothing quality of the restaurant. Where was the Greek village, the hills, the vineyards?
Olive & Ivy
78 Route 35
Eatontown
732-389-0000
OliveandIvyMediterranean.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this bimonthly column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
