POSILLIPO
Rating: Good
Normally, we would not visit a restaurant that had only been open for just three or four weeks for purposes of a review. It’s usually best to wait a while to allow the kitchen and service to get up to speed and work out the kinks. However, when we learned that this iconic restaurant was re-opening after almost two years, we could not resist jumping the gun.
First opened in 1929, serving high-quality classic Italian fare, Posillipo’s quickly grew to become a fixture in Asbury Park. It was eventually bought by Dr. Carl Sammarco, an area oral surgeon, who hired then 16-year-old David Espinosa from Mexico, as a dishwasher, in 1990. Fast forward to 2016…Espinosa and his family now own the restaurant. After an unfortunate fire in 2014, during remodeling of the previous location, Posillipo has since moved once again. It is newly located on Route 35 in Ocean Township, at the site of the former Mike and Nellie’s, where many of the popular, original dishes are on the menu.
The best of the appetizers was the Frutti di Mare Cocktail for two ($18.95), a pristine platter of shrimp, clams, and oysters and cocktail sauce; straightforward and sparkling fresh.
Fried Calamari Marinara ($9.95) was disappointing. The breadcrumb coating far too soft and falling off the tender squid rings. This dish needs to be flash fried, and served crunchy.
We were also less than enamored of the Mozzarella Carrozza ($7.95). This version – soft, soggy, and heavy on the bread – fell far short of the classic crispy, golden crusted, fried cheese sandwich style which we so enjoy.
Once we were past the appetizers, our prospects improved with the arrival of the homemade pastas. There is a section on the menu listing six “Wheel Cheese Pastas (for 2).” A table in the center of the dining room holds a very large wheel of Parmesan Reggiano, which has been hollowed out to create a “cheese bowl.” One dedicated gentleman, Oscar, on the night of our visit, finishes these dishes there. The hot pasta goes directly from the cooking water into this bowl and is mixed inside, infusing it with the flavor of the cheese; then it is removed and sauced as ordered. There are a number of other pasta offerings, prepared in the traditional way, but this method, carried over from Posillipo’s rich history, drew us in, so we ordered one and were happy we did so. Listed as Ariquiete Posillipo ($16.95), small ear-shaped pasta, which we took to mean oricchiete, with fennel, basil, garlic, and browned bits of tasty sausage, was a favorite.
From the other pasta offerings, we also enjoyed the Linguine ala Vongole ($18.95); topped with small, plump clams, in a fresh tasting, light red tomato sauce, which was a flavorful change from the usual white saucing.
The main courses supported our evolving favorable impression. A very generous portion of Zuppa di Pesce ($28.95), assorted shellfish including half a lobster and calamari, arrived over thin pasta, more resembling a Pasta Pescatore; but that did not diminish the excellence of the dish. The broth had just the right touch of garlic and herbs to create an addictive entrée.
A special, Veal Chop Valdostana ($30.99), a sizeable hunk of perfectly cooked, tender veal, stuffed with fontina cheese and prosciutto in a brown Marsala sauce, was memorable.
Classic Vitello Milanese ($30.99), arriving as a flattened and breaded, crispy veal chop, covered with fresh arugula and diced tomatoes, was very enjoyable.
The desserts are all homemade, and we were very happy with the Ricotta Cheesecake ($5.95), as a creamy, but light, ending to our meal.
The wine list is in need of revision. It is rather limited and offers a few gently priced, ho-hum day reds and whites, and then jumps to a couple of over-$100 bottles. A broader selection of more unusual wines would be much appreciated. We ordered a lush and soft 2007 Poggio Verrano Dromos ($62), a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Alicante, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc; more like this please!
Another area in need of polishing is the service. Allowing for the fact that the recent opening did not provide enough time for the staff to fine-tune delivery of food, water service and replacement of silverware, we think that tincture of time will cure these shortcomings. All of the elements for a great neighborhood Italian restaurant are in place; a number of good dishes, reasonable prices, warm and friendly waitstaff, and portions large enough for leftovers. We are confident that this historic restaurant will rise again to its former level of excellence and have another long run of years.
The Two Bobs rate Posillipo: Good
Posillipo
1801 Rte. 35
Ocean Township
732-508-9700
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column. Read their reviews here.
