There’s a heartwarming American success story which took place right here in Rumson. Shortly after arriving in New Jersey from Ecuador in 2001, 18-year-old Cesar Cardenas was happy to get a job as a dishwasher at the Salt Creek Grille, overlooking the Navesink River in Rumson. He was smart, ambitious and a hard worker, and learned all he could from his co-workers. After a number of years, he graduated to head grill master and finally, last October, 20 years after first starting, he was named Executive Chef of the entire restaurant. That’s an incredible accomplishment; and based on his drive and pursuit of excellence, a great reason to try his food.
Although the restaurant seats 250, we chose to do takeout, in order to experience their food in our own dining room at home. From the expansive list of Starters, we began with Burrata Flat Bread ($16); sitting atop six pizza-like triangles of toasted flatbread was melted burrata cheese, strips of roasted red peppers, a bit of tomato marmalade and pieces of grilled chicken, all dressed with a drizzle of balsamic glaze. This was an immediate favorite, with a great range of textures and tastes.
A generous portion of grit-free, good-sized Mussels ($16), done in a broth of lemon, butter, white wine, tomatoes and basil, came with a side of toasted focaccia bread for soaking up that flavorful broth. There was more than enough to easily share with a companion.
An order of five Stuffed Jumbo Shrimp ($17) were horseradish-stuffed, wrapped in crispy bacon and served with a chipotle honey. The horseradish stuffing was relatively mild and the shrimp well-cooked and moist, but for my taste, the flavor of the bacon tended to overwhelm their subtle flavors and dominate the dish.
In addition to other items, there was also Goat Cheese Marinara ($13), Spinach Artichoke Dip ($15) and Salt and Vinegar Potato Chips ($9) on the Starter menu, which also sounded appealing, but we needed to save room for the rest of the meal.
We were very happy with the Superfood Salad ($16); a large portion – beautifully presented – of toasted quinoa, shredded broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, sunflower seeds, chunks of red beets, dried cranberries, cubes of apple, crumbled feta cheese and a lime vinaigrette, was addictive. The crunchiness of the mix, combined with multiple layered tastes from the varied components, made each bite an adventure in eating. Yes, it was a blend of ingredients which are good for you, but it tasted good, too. This was a favorite dish of the night.
Vegetarians will like the Entrée offering of Cauliflower Steak ($20), which arrived as a thick slice of a large cauliflower head, accompanied by a roasted butternut squash and kale hash, citrus-flavored brown rice and a carrot ginger puree. We chose this as a side dish to share because it sounded too interesting to ignore, but the size of the dish and the depth of flavors make this a good main course, as it was intended to be.
Although there is Oven-Roasted Faroe Island Salmon ($28) and Chilean Sea Bass ($41) on the menu, there is also an offering of Line-Caught Market Fish (market price), filleted in-house daily, and served with the chef’s choice of preparation which I chose. The night of our dinner it was a large, thick chunk of tuna, dusted with sesame seeds and grilled. You can substitute sides, so I chose string beans and Brussels sprouts. The fish was not quite as rare as requested, but was still pink, moist and flavorful.
A Double-Cut Grilled Pork Chop ($30) was served with chunky mashed potatoes, bacon mushroom sauce and crispy and fresh string beans in place of the roasted Brussels sprouts. Perfectly grilled, lean and nicely trimmed, this thick cut was a benchmark serving of this popular dinner item; the mesquite flavor of the grilling adding to our enjoyment.
As if this was not enough, we ordered a side of Kale Hash ($8), a mix of roasted butternut squash with chopped fresh kale. This was enough for us to enjoy it with dinner, with plenty left over for the next day.
Some of the other Entrée offerings which we did not get to try included Steak Frites ($30), a mesquite-grilled flat iron steak; Mesquite-Grilled Baby Back Ribs ($31); and Slow-Roasted Half Chicken ($21).
If you are in the mood for lighter fare, there are a number of soups, salads and sandwiches listed on the menu as well.
Everything was assembled to go with as much care given to presentation as it would have been had we dined inside the restaurant. The packaging and visual appeal were well thought out and very attractive. Not all restaurants have been able to accomplish this feat as successfully.
Based on this experience, it is quite apparent that Chef Cesar Cardenas has everything well in hand at the Salt Creek Grille, and may even up the game as he continues to put his own stamp on the menu. It is even more impressive when one considers his journey from dishwasher to accomplished Executive Chef.
4 Bingham Ave.
Rumson
732-933-9272
saltcreekgrille.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
The article originally appeared in the March 10 – 16, 2022 print edition of The Two River Times.
