By Elizabeth Wulfhorst
Thanksgiving has passed and the nights are getting longer. As the shortest day of the year approaches, bringing light and comfort to the home is a top priority. This holiday season soothe guests and family with holiday food from around the world.
It gets dark early in New Jersey in December, but residents of Monmouth County still experience about nine and a half hours of daylight, even during the Winter Solstice, this year Dec. 21. Those living in Sweden, however, located 19 degrees farther north in latitude, only get 6 hours, 45 minutes of light on the shortest day of the year. So it’s no wonder the country celebrates light during Advent with a wonderful treat called lussebullar, saffron buns or commonly, St. Lucia buns.
St. Lucia (or Lucy) was a teenager in Sicily, martyred during the third century. She is purported to have brought aid to persecuted Christians in the catacombs wearing a wreath of candles to light her way and keep her hands free to carry food. Anyone who has a daughter of a certain age will be familiar with Kirsten Larson, the now-retired American Girl doll from Minnesota whose accessories included a St. Lucia gown, candle wreath and tray, including saffron buns.
Though not officially a holiday in Sweden, because of her association with light St. Lucia is celebrated with food and festivities Dec. 13, thought to be the shortest day of the year before calendar reforms. Stockholm chooses a young girl every year to represent “Lucy” who leads a giant procession through the streets. Other cities and regions do the same, as do schools and churches.
The St. Lucia buns prevalent during the celebration are easily formed into the traditional S shape and studded with two currants or topped with Swedish pearl sugar, a great choice for the holiday season.
A little note about saffron. Yes, it is the world’s most expensive spice. Why? Saffron threads need to be hand-harvested from the saffron crocus which only grows in certain areas of the world, like Iran, Greece, Spain and Morocco. At $500 an ounce, pricey is an understatement. But small quantities of good-quality saffron can be found in most grocery stores and online. Most recipes call for very small amounts – ½ teaspoon or less – and since the holidays are a time to splurge, don’t skip this ingredient. This recipe calls for ¼ teaspoon; you can use the remainder of your saffron in risotto, chicken dishes, rice pudding, even lemon bars. It imparts the most wonderful color and subtle flavor. Don’t be afraid to experiment.
St. Lucia Buns (Lussebullar)
Serves: 12
Ingredients:
1 cup (227 grams) whole milk
¼ teaspoon saffron threads, lightly crushed
½ cup (113 grams) butter, softened
4 ½ (539 grams) cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon instant yeast
½ cup (43 grams) instant potato flakes
1 ½ teaspoons salt
1/3 cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
2 large whole eggs
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 large egg white
1/3 cup coarse pearl sugar
Directions:
In a small saucepan set over medium heat (or in a microwave-safe bowl in the microwave), heat the milk and saffron to a simmer; remove from the heat and stir in the butter until melted. Set aside to cool to lukewarm, between 85 and 90°F.
Pour into the bowl of a stand mixer. Add yeast, flour, potato flakes, salt and sugar in that order. Mix for about a minute until ingredients begin to combine.
Add the 2 whole eggs, 1 egg yolk and the vanilla and mix on medium speed for 5-6 minutes, until the dough is smooth and supple. Alternately, knead by hand for 8-10 minutes.
Place the dough in a bowl lightly greased with cooking spray, cover it and let it rise for 1 hour, or until quite puffy, though not necessarily doubled in bulk.
Gently deflate the dough and divide into 12 equal pieces. If you have a scale, each piece will weigh about 92 grams or 3¼ ounces. Allow the pieces to rest, covered, for about 10 minutes.
Shape each piece of dough into a rough log and then roll each log into an approximately 18-inch rope. The dough may shrink once you stop rolling; that’s OK. If the ropes are really fighting you, let the dough rest for another 5-10 minutes to relax the gluten.
Shape each rope into an “S” by coiling each end in opposite directions toward the middle.
Place the buns on a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving an inch or so between them. Cover with a clean, light dish towel and let rise for about 30 minutes, until the buns are noticeably puffy, but definitely not doubled.
While they’re rising, preheat the oven to 375°F.
Whisk the egg white with 1 tablespoon cold water. Brush each bun lightly with this mixture being careful not to deflate the buns. Sprinkle immediately with coarse pearl sugar.
Bake the buns until they’re golden brown, about 18 to 20 minutes.
Remove the buns from the oven and transfer them to a rack to cool slightly. Serve warm with coffee or tea.
Adapted from King Arthur Flour
