When Sprig restaurant opened in December 2022 it faced a number of challenges, not the least of which was its location in the Consumer Centre in West Long Branch, best known for The Home Depot and Dick’s Sporting Goods. It’s hard to take a fine dining destination seriously in a location like that, but it nevertheless developed a loyal following for its very good food.
Fast-forward to 2024 and Sprig’s co-owners, Sam Sitten (chef) and Kimberly Jeanette (front of house), have relocated to The Marina in Oceanport. They now have turned 180 degrees to gorgeous water views from almost all tables, indoor and outdoor seating, and a bright airy atmosphere. Wow! Good things do come to those who wait. The menu has some of the best dishes from the previous spot with a number of new and interesting ones as well.
Oysters on the half shell ($24 for 6) were on the appetizer menu. We enjoyed sharing the fresh, briny Pemaquid bivalves with the accompanying cocktail sauce, horseradish and mignonette sauce. For those who prefer oysters cooked, they are also offered as Oysters Romanowski, baked with spinach, tomato concasse and ham hock. An order of Homemade Bread ($7) had a nice texture and crust, and the whipped butter that came with it was smooth and mildly flavored.
Tuna Tartare ($20) was plated with pineapple, mango, avocado, soy, sesame, lime, slices of cucumber and crispy wontons. One of my guests enjoyed the flavor and tenderness of the tuna, but would have preferred a bit less fruit in the dish.
I remembered the Jumbo Lump Crab Cake ($24) from the previous location and was not disappointed, enjoying it once again in this new setting. The serving of panseared crab cake, plated with avocado crema, miso lime greens and fruit salsa was juicy and mostly crabmeat with very little detectable filler. This is also offered as an entrée-size portion and served with grilled asparagus, wild rice, fruit salsa and beurre blanc. One of my favorite dishes of the night. Calamari Salad ($24) was rated as the “best calamari salad I’ve ever had” by one of our dining companions. Not only was the fried calamari light and crisp, but careful attention had been paid to the salad itself, which contained cucumber, tomato, cashews, frisèe lettuce and a miso lime vinaigrette. A crispy and refreshing Misto Salad ($12) consisting of baby greens, cucumber, tomato, red onion and balsamic vinaigrette, made for a light summer starter.
A good balance of ingredients made up the Beet and Goat Cheese Salad ($16). Tender beets, crispy arugula, creamy goat cheese, pistachios and a raspberry vinaigrette was another salad offering that was well received by our dinner party.
From the entrée offerings, one diner chose the Bone-in Pork Chop Milanese ($38). The pan-seared, breaded chop was plated with arugula, red onion, cucumber, tomato, parmesan and balsamic vinaigrette. This well-executed classic combination did not disappoint and spoke of summer.
Be sure to ask about nightly specials. The night of our visit, one guest chose the offering of Grilled Shrimp with “Long Hots” ($24). The dish, which had a nice kick, was plated with tender shrimp, peppers, fried artichokes and gently roasted tomato. She was very pleased with her choice.
Pan-seared Szechuan Duck Breast ($38), served with wild rice, grilled asparagus, shitake mushrooms and a demi-glaze, was a generous portion of tender duck meat, enhanced by the flavor ful accompaniments.
Another classic recipe, Crab Stuffed Shrimp ($42), shared the plate with grilled asparagus, wild rice, ginger lime beurre blanc, root vegetable puree and fig balsamic drizzle. A generous amount of sweet crab meat filled the shrimp. A touch more of the ginger lime beurre blanc would have provided more moisture to the dish.
Don’t miss the Pan-Seared Branzino ($36) with roasted mushrooms, caponata, potato croquette and ginger carrot coulis, which was deemed the dish of the night. The generous portion of juicy, moist fish, perfectly tender with crispy skin, was thoroughly enjoyed.
There is a small, select list of wines by the glass and bottle from which we chose a 2022 Renaissance Sancerre ($70/bottle). This white sauvignon blanc from France had lots of fruit with a touch of mild tannin, which allowed it to pair well with most dishes.
A nice variety of tasty desserts was offered at $15 each. All were large enough to share. The Chocolate Dome, a ginger chocolate mousse layered over chocolate chiffon cake and covered with a smooth chocolate glaze, was served with passion fruit puree and a tropical fruit sorbet which contrasted nicely with the richness of the chocolate.
Lemon Ricotta Fritters, Italian-style donuts with lemon crème and blueberry compote, were light and refreshing. We also had to try Nina’s Olive Cake. This classic Italian version was flavored with citrus and served with apricot sauce and a rich ricotta ice cream.
A unique Lime and Raspberry Chiboust (a light and airy custard-based cream) was combined with a raspberry gelee and fresh raspberries. Save room for the desserts – they are well worth it.
The Marina at Oceanport marries delicious food with an idyllic setting. Overlooking Oceanport Creek with boat slips at the marina, it’s a great improvement over the parking lot view of Home Depot. This food is truly worthy of the new setting.
Marina At oceanport
10 Riverside Ave.
Oceanport
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
The article originally appeared in the July 4 – July 10, 2024 print edition of The Two River Times.
