The party was in full swing as we opened the door and walked into Birravino on Riverside Avenue, Red Bank, on a recent Friday night. It sounded as if there was a celebration being held at every table: unbridled laughter, animated conversation and music accompanied hearty eating and drinking. Such is the atmosphere created at this unique fusion of brewpub, trattoria, and gastropub – sort of Italy meets Britain, if you will. Yes, the noise level is high, and the expansive open design, with bare floors, brick walls, and metal-topped tables does nothing to dampen it, but it does make for a lively, spirit-raising experience.
The waitstaff were extraordinarily attentive, informative and clearly eager to please. From the order-taker to the wine and beer manager, they all made an effort to ensure that we were enjoying our evening, and answered any and all questions.
Insalate Verde ($14), a generous serving of mixed baby greens, asparagus, and string beans, dressed simply with herb-flecked EVOO and red wine vinegar, and topped with eye-catching slices of large, crisp, watermelon radishes, was light and refreshing. There is always a feeling of virtue and good health from eating a fresh salad, and indeed, this one filled the bill nicely.
Having never met an octopus dish that did not tempt, I was immediately drawn to a special offering ($16); braised, cut-up pieces, were served in a whole plum tomato sauce, with strips of fennel, sweet green Sicilian olives, hot cherry peppers, capers and a hunk of grilled Ciabatta bread. It was a flavorful variation on the usual charred tentacle presentations. The fennel’s mild anise flavor and slightly crunchy texture provided a tasty counterpoint to the octopus, which was meaty, but inconsistently cooked, with some pieces properly firm, others too soft.
A special of the night, Zuppa di Pesce ($30), was indeed special: a tender piece of filet of sole, shrimp, calamari rings, black mussels and house-made Fregola, in a light, but very flavorful tomato broth. Fregola, a Sardinian pasta, resembling couscous but slightly larger, is made by rolling little pellets of semolina dough into small round balls and then toasting them in the oven; unique and very tasty. I really liked this.
The Branzino Special ($32), an oven-roasted whole fish stuffed with thin slices of lemon and sprigs of fresh herbs, served with sautéed zucchini, onion, charred cherry tomatoes, and some pieces of roasted garlic, which lent a Mediterranean touch to the tasty vegetables, was quite good.
A simple side dish (Contorni) of Braised Escarole ($9) with Spanish onion and currants, was silky and stunning, providing an unexpected treat. Properly cooked just through, while preserving a nice gentle crunch, this humble vegetable was elevated to leading role status. Bravo!
In addition to a wide selection of house-made and other-maker beers, there are two wine lists, both appropriately all Italian. The regular one offers selections by the glass as well as a large number of well-chosen bottles, $25/$50. The second, “Speciale” list, where bottles start at $50 and go up from there, showcases many unusual, and indeed special bottles, which are reasonably priced considering their rarity and retail cost. For white, I chose an enjoyable glass of 2016 Terlano Pinot Bianco ($14) from the Alto Adige region, with an aroma of sea air, minerals and pear, and good body and acidity. The red, a glass of 2014 Montessu from Sardinia, a blend of 60 percent Carignano, with some Syrah, Cabernet (both Sauvignon and Franc), and Merlot, was a pleasant surprise. Low tannin, velvety fruit, and a touch of acidity, made it a good pairing for the pizza and tomato-based entrees.
BIRRAVINO
183 Riverside Ave., Red Bank
832-842-5990
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this bimonthly column. Read his reviews here.
