By Bob Sacks
Surf’s up! In Tinton Falls? For sure, dude! Even though nighttime temperatures have sunk into the 20s, and there are still mounds of dirty snow on the edge of the roads, Woody’s in Tinton Falls provides a welcome escape to the sunny California warmth of the Beach Boys, surfboards, and SoCal/Southwest food. A sister restaurant of the original Woody’s in Sea Bright, this location offers a similar menu and theme of casual food and fun, in a bright, airy setting. Despite the fact that we were miles from the beach, the natural wood tables, surfboards on the walls and open ceilings made for a laid-back seaside feel which welcomed diners of all ages.
Spring Lake Spinach Salad ($14), baby spinach, cubes of roasted sweet potatoes, jicama, crispy chorizo, pumpkin seeds, slivered red onion, queso fresco and avocado ranch dressing, was very fresh and satisfying and indeed lent a summery feel to our meal.
I enjoyed the Poke ($16); cubes of tender tuna, marinated in a soy ginger sauce, garnished with cilantro and black and white sesame seeds, and served with tortilla chips, was a generous serving of high-quality fish. In fact, all of the dishes were more than ample; we saw many diners taking home “doggie bags.”
We were back on track with the Calamari ($12). Opting for the sweet and sour version, we were rewarded with a large plate of gently breaded, tender rings and crunchy tentacles, drizzled with a rich sauce that tasted of honey and chili sauce, which was hard to stop eating. This dish is worthy of a return visit.
There were a number of intriguing-sounding fish entrees offered. We chose a pan-seared Grouper Verde ($28). Plated with perfectly cooked rice and black beans, the fish was sauced with a mildly spicy avocado tomatillo salsa. My only issue was that this gently flavored, tender fish was totally buried under a small mountain of rich, highly flavored salsa, which unfortunately masked the delicate taste of the fish and dominated the plate. I would suggest ordering the sauce on the side and use it for dipping, which would then make this dish an excellent choice.
There is a large menu of cocktails, beers, mixed drinks, tequilas and wines by the glass and bottle. Individual glasses of wine are served in 8.5 ounce quartino mini-carafes, which is a classy touch. I enjoyed the grapefruit/lime freshness of a 2016 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc ($10 /glass) from New Zealand, and thought it paired well with the more assertively flavored dishes by providing some acidity and zest. 2015 Decoy Chardonnay ($12/glass), a second label from Duckhorn, was mild, pleasant, and not overly oaky, but was too low in minerality and acidity to allow it to be an ideal pairing for most of the dishes. For red wine, a glass of Lyric Pinot Noir ($14) a second label from Etude, was bright, soft, fruit-filled and low in tannin, making it easy to drink and particularly good with the salmon dish.
If you can’t escape the cold, gray, dreary weather of our New Jersey winter with a trip south, I can think of no better getaway than a quick visit to Woody’s in Tinton Falls. The spacious dining area, beachy-surfer surroundings, and fresh tasting Cali/Southwest food will instantly transport you away, even if only for an hour or two!
Woody’s
1202 Sycamore Ave. Tinton Falls
732-935-0525
woodysoceangrille.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restau- rants in this bimonthly column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.