It’s no secret that Asbury Park is a mecca for restaurant-goers. There are many dining choices on almost every street, from simple takeout and fast food, to high-end eateries. So how does a recently-opened, fine dining restaurant carve out a niche and distinguish itself from the others?
That is what we were wondering when we sat down at an outside table on a recent warm night at Dolce Fantasia on Cookman Avenue. Once the appetizers arrived, it was readily apparent that this restaurant was on a fast track to create a unique experience that made it noteworthy. Chef/owner John Djombalic, who was born and raised in Northern Italy, has a great eye for artistic plating and an experienced palate for combining flavors, all of which makes for a very delicious dinner.
Imported Burrata with a fresh Mango Puree and halved Figs ($24) was pretty to look at and a very satisfying starter. The contrast between the creamy cheese, tangy puree and slightly tart figs created a variety of flavors in each bite, all blending seamlessly. This drew praise from all of us at the table and is a recommended appetizer.
Polpettine di Granchio ($24), two 7-ounce crab cakes, plated with a salad of tomato, spinach, mixed greens and a citrus vinaigrette, were meaty, juicy and tasted like they were virtually all crab meat. This was another appetizer that my guests and I liked very much. High marks also went to the Polpettine di Pollo (chicken meatballs) ($18). A generous serving with a rich but light homemade tomato sauce, garnished with cheese, was a tasty starter and a pleasant variation from the usual beef meatballs. As with the previous dishes, this was a large enough portion to be shared by two diners or, as we did, tasted by four.
Tuna Tartare ($24) showcased the kitchen’s artistic side. Sliced ahi tuna sat on a bed of paper-thin sliced radishes and cucumbers and included artichokes, peppers, scallions, avocado, pesto and aged balsamic vinegar. Once again, the deft hand in the kitchen was quite evident, as there was a variety of flavors, each remaining distinctive, yet all coming together to create a harmonious dish.
As with the special appetizer choices, there were also a large variety of entrée specials offered in addition to the regular menu.
Being a big fan of octopus, I could not resist ordering the Polpo ($48). Large pieces of baked king octopus tentacles shared the plate with Tuscan potatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, black olives and chili, and were dressed with gorgonzola cream sauce. Many times, octopus can be chewy and tough but that was not the case here. It was juicy and tender and very enjoyable.
A special of Truffle Stuffed Gnocchi ($35) received high marks from my guest who ordered it and graciously allowed the rest of us to share. The homemade dumplings were light and not at all heavy or chewy and the flavor of the truffles was readily apparent. Recommended! If you are a big truffle fan, there is an entire truffle-based dinner menu offered online.
A large boneless filet of Grilled Branzino ($32) served with a disc of gratin potatoes, Castelvetrano olives, capers and topped with a tangy tomato confit, was tender and moist and delighted my guest who was very happy that not a single bit of bone or chewy piece of skin were to be found anywhere.
Langostine with Pasta ($55) was another entrée from the list of specials. A generous amount of the crayfish in a creamy tomato sauce was served over delicate, homemade spinach fettucine.
Dolce Fantasia is BYO, so we brought and enjoyed an Italian white wine with our appetizers: 2021 Donnafugata Anthilia, a dry and crisp Sicilian wine that paired well with most of the dishes. One of my guests was in the mood for a classic Bordeaux that night and graciously treated us to a 2006 Chateau Montrose, a perfectly mature and totally delicious red from the Saint Estephe region that was very special. Yum!
The dessert menu listed many homemade offerings and after much consideration, we exhibited a modicum of restraint and shared some of them from the extensive, tempting list. Sicilian Cannoli ($8) were stuffed with a choice of pistachio or chocolate ricotta cream; we went with pistachio.
We also enjoyed a Fresh Fruit Tarte ($14); strawberries atop a light custard base.
The Apple Tart ($12), baked apples, cinnamon, butter and sugar in a handmade crust, was very good and not overly sweet.
A delicate Paris-Brest ($10) made of choux pastry filled with hazelnut cream was an irresistible treat as well.
After the dinner, Chef Djombalic advised us that he hopes to share some of his culinary secrets by hosting cooking classes in the near future.
Service was exceptionally attentive and caring. Based on our well prepared, tasty dinner and the hands-on care that was readily apparent in every dish, it is obvious that Dolce Fantasia is well on the way to carving out a unique place for itself that will set it apart from many other restaurants in the vicinity. The creativity and execution of the extensive menu and specials was quite impressive.
Dolce Fantasia
521 Cookman Ave., Asbury Park
DOLCEFANTASIA.US
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
The article originally appeared in the July 6 – 12, 2023 print edition of The Two River Times.
