S
tory and Photos by Art Petrosemolo
Tuscany has always on my bucket list, specifically the Palio horserace in Siena where city districts (called contrade) race for honor and bragging rights.
The race – three times around the campo – is an event that is as dangerous as the running of the bulls in Pamplona.
I got to Tuscany this summer on a trip I planned with a consultant, who specializes in customized trips. While I got to Siena, unfortunately, it was a few days after the race.
I was fortunate, however, as a photographer to visit the farm where the winning horse – Oppio – was on holiday with his owner. She gave me the run of the paddock and I photographed for an hour.
When planning my trip, my travel consultant said I’d get lost but everyone does. What she didn’t tell me was driving a six-speed, standard shift Alfa Romeo through the tourist-filled, narrow streets of Siena was what she meant.
In Tuscany, we saw the countryside, the towns and small cities. I got lost more than once but loved driving the hill roads and highways. When a tiny Fiat tailgated, I dropped the Alfa into fifth gear and accelerated to 140 km per hour and left it in the dust.
I also learned that no matter how much planning you do – and I started planning this trip in the fall of 2013 – things can – and usually do – change. I have learned, with age to be a little more patient than my younger days – but just a little.
My first goal in visiting Tuscany was to photograph the Palio horses. My second goal was to stay in more than one town and to have flexibility to see sights on my own in Tuscany and Umbria. I wanted to stay in first-class hotels with character along the way.
I suppose I could have researched and picked the locations and hotels myself but a consultant, for a reasonable fee, suggested the towns and hotels. She shared her thoughts and I reviewed the itinerary and only then did she make the reservations. Her itinerary was precise and complete and her choices were on the mark.
Our itinerary included three days in Cortona at a small, historic vineyard (Il Falconiere) outside of town. In Siena we were booked into the historic Palazzo Razizza inside the city walls and in Montalcino, we were staying at the hotel/spa Castello Di Velona, also away from the city center.
We arrived in Italy through Venice and made the 230-mile trip to Cortona without a problem. The Italian highway system – Autostrada – was excellent and I had purchased a GPS unit with Italian maps, although Europcar would have rented me one. I strongly recommend a GPS for touring. It was right on 99 percent of the time.
Our first stop, Il Falconiere, was a special, out-of-the way place with private pools, two-room suites and the privacy we enjoyed. There are limited rooms in a few villas in the midst of working vineyards. Il Falconiere has cooking classes and tours of their winery and a gourmet restaurant, but that’s it. For excitement, you drive into Cortona (2 km away), park in one of the lots and walk the steep stairs to the city center or visit points of interest close by.
We spent one full day in Cortona exploring churches and historic sites. The second day, we dove the 40 miles to Assisi to see the great cathedral of St. Francis.
After three days in Cortona, we drove the 50 miles to Siena with a stop at a hot springs day spa (Italian water park without slides) along the way for an hour in their three heated mineral water pools. It was a good stop, nor far from the highway. It had a bar/restaurant for lunch and was a nice break in the drive.
Getting to the Palazzo Ravizza inside the walls of Siena was a challenge. The Ravizza is a historic hotel that has welcomed guests since the early 20th century.
The GPS, surprisingly, got us through the narrow streets filled with tourists right to the door. The problem was I could not see the door. I was looking for a U.S.-type sign that flashed “hotel.” I know now it isn’t that way in Italy.
We had two busy days in the historic city. The food in Siena was to die for and we tried four different restaurants, all at the recommendation of Franchesca at the hotel, and each one was terrific. We spent an evening at an opera concert and enjoyed the formal gardens at the Palazzo Ravizzo for breakfast in the morning and wine at sunset overlooking the countryside.
Our final Tuscan stop was at the Castelo di Velona, a mountaintop hotel spa about 10 miles from Montalcino. We took the path less traveled to drive to the castle with a stop at a monastery as well as lunch in a small town along the way.
The Casatella di Velona was major league with multiple swimming pools, all filled with mineral water at different temperatures. My wife enjoyed spa services and the views from the outdoor patios, bar and restaurant were beautiful. We even had an overnight series of thunderstorms to give the vineyards a drink and woke up to a rainbow over the valley.
There are more than 260 vineyards and wineries in the Montalcino area and we visited a small one, with the help of hotel staff, for a tour and tasting. Many visitors find time to visit multiple wineries on trips to Tuscany. This area is world famous – justly – for its Brunello wine.
The hill town/fortress of Montalcino is charming with enough small shops, restaurants and things to see to fill a good part of the day. Residents are very friendly and courteous and we helped the local economy by buying gifts in several stores.
After three days at the castle, I chose to drive back to Venice (five hours) rather than to drop the car in Tuscany and take the train to Florence and then Venice. Our final two nights were spent at the Metropole in Venice before returning home through London.
Venice is over the top in art and culture and everything Italian. It is beautiful in its own way, but it is not Tuscany. It was a fitting end for a 14-day trip that got us to see the heart of Tuscany the way we wanted to see it, in our own vehicle, at our own pace over nearly two weeks with the stops we had planned.
As I worked my way home and gave the trip some thought, it occurred to me, smiling, that heaven must be just like Tuscany. It truly is a special place.
