Restaurant Review

1701
Baked clams were deftly breaded with a thin layer of crunchy breadcrumbs.

Italians have a word for that state of sleepiness, after having a great meal, sitting back and letting the feeling of calm contentment wash over you. This is not the same kind of drowsiness one feels at bedtime; but rather “abbiocco” means to let yourself enter a state of deep relaxation and escape the outside world and your cares, even if only for a short time.

Thus Abbiocco, at the Channel Club in Monmouth Beach, strives to provide satisfying Italian cuisine in a serene and picturesque setting, in an effort to induce that laid-back state for which it is aptly named. Only two months old, occupying the previous wedding and banquet room, this restaurant is serving up some very fine food. Kenny Mansfield, the chef at Beach Tavern – on the same property and under the same ownership – was able to hit the ground running.

It was such a beautiful night that we chose to sit outside on the patio next to the river. Both regular and high-top tables are offered.

From the Antipasti section of the menu, we opted for Polpo ($18). The grilled octopus, properly tender and with a nice char, was plated with gigante mannati (a large white Greek bean), and salsa rosa (a pink, lightly creamy sauce, generally made from red bell peppers and tomatoes as the primary elements). Very tasty and impossible to leave un- finished.

The Vongole ($18), eight baked clams with breadcrumbs, chili and lemon, avoided all of the pitfalls often experienced elsewhere. There was no trace of oiliness and a thin layer of crunchy breadcrumbs provided a nice texture without making them soggy or losing that saline, clam flavor. Bravo!

Luganiga ($22), a single-coiled pinwheel of grilled fennel sausage, sat under a layer of peppers and onions and house-made potato chips. The sweet but savory sausage was cooked through but not dry and was very tasty. This is a pleasant, lighter iteration of sausage, well suited to a warm, sultry summer night. If you are looking for a spicy, heavier style of meaty sausage, look elsewhere.

Of the seven pastas of- fered, the Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe ($32) called out to us. This classic Roman dish featured slightly square, somewhat thick and long pasta, with the traditional grated pecorino cheese and black pepper, sauced with olive oil and butter. The pepper provided a pronounced spark to this dish.

It felt like a seafood night and, happily, there were four fish and seafood entrees to choose from the entrée section of the menu, which also listed two versions of chicken, filet mignon, two kinds of veal and porterhouse steak. Salmone Stagione ($36) was a crispy-skinned piece of Faroe Island salmon, which sat above chunks of artichoke hearts and potatoes and cherry tomatoes in a parmigiana brodetto (a fish stock made with olive oil, parmesan cheese and garlic). This arrived perfectly medium-rare as ordered and was juicy and very satisfying.


BOB SACKS
Fluke ala Francese, served with a very tasty Escarole Siciliano, with pignola nuts and raisins, was a delicious vari- ation of the usual French presentation.

We also opted for Francese ($36), which this night was listed as local fluke filet, with escarole sicliano, lemon, butter and parsley. The lightly battered, moist fish, was served on a bed of sautéed escarole with golden raisins and pignola nuts, capers and a light, creamy, white wine sauce. Not at all heavy, this preparation allowed the sweet meatiness of the fluke to shine through. Livornese ($38) of bronzini, a generous hunk of fish, arrived with a crispy crust and shared the bowl with a classic Livornese sauce of tomatoes, olives, capers and white wine, among other ingredients. Once again, the fish was cooked to a point of doneness, still retaining juiciness and nice texture.

What to drink with this fine food? There is a well-cu- rated list of house wines, carafes of Aperol Spritzes and Capri Punch, signature cocktails and beer in bottles and cans, as well as a more extensive wine list. The combination of warm weather and fish entrees pointed to a bottle of 2019 Bechar Fiano di Avellino ($16/glass; $48/ bottle). This white from Campania had flavors of summer stone fruits with just enough acidity to avoid sweetness. It was an ideal pairing for everything we ate.

Once our charming and gracious server told us the gelato and sorbet were house-made, it was a done deal for dessert. Each portion is two generous scoops ($8) and we thoroughly enjoyed the pistachio and chocolate gelatos, as well as the fresh lemon and mango sorbets.

The evening did indeed end with a feeling of well-fed contentment. OK, the service was quite leisurely, but that is because restaurants that exist now may not be able to find enough help in the kitchen or the front of house at any price. We, as diners, cannot assume that things are back to the way they were pre-pandemic, and must allow for this current environment by being understanding, patient and pleasant, and accepting the new normal for the time being.

Thanks to the Italians for coining a beautiful-sounding name for that post-meal state of almost groggy contentment; it is so much nicer sounding than “food coma,” the phrase we associate with the after-effects of a large Thanksgiving meal. Indeed, Abbiocco is far more refined and elegant in all aspects – the experience, the word and the restaurant. It is a welcome addition to the Two River dining scene!

ABBIOCCO

2 CHANNEL DRIVE MONMOUTH BEACH

732-229-3131

Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.