For a new restaurant to get noticed in Red Bank, which already has a large number of eateries, it has to be special. And if it’s Italian, the competition is even greater as there is no shortage of that type of cuisine in the area.
So, when Catezza, on Broad Street, opened at the end of August it faced a serious challenge, but remarkably it has carved out a niche of its own. If we need to define it, then creative, fine Italian dining with some unique preparations, in a relaxed and comfortable setting, is a good descriptor.
An Appetizer selection that tempted us was the Calabrian Tuna ($19). This was a very good version of Tuna Sashimi, an item seen on virtually every restaurant menu nowadays. Their take on it presented cubes of “spicy” tuna, with basil oil, served on crispy squares of fried Arancini cakes. The contrast between the mildly spice tuna and the crispy, crunchy rice squares was very enjoyable.
Polpo alla Griglia (($19) octopus with Italian hummus, and farro -based tabbouleh, arrived as a generous portion of tender chunks of tentacles which were nicely charred. Once again, an oft seen appetizer elsewhere, this one stood out for its uniqueness and rich flavors.
Four versions of Crostini are offered, and we opted for the Caponata ($17) which consisted of burrata, eggplant, balsamic vinegar, pine nuts and basil oil. The crunchiness, mild sweetness of the eggplant, and touch of acidity from the vinegar made for a very enjoyable combination. There were also Beet & Pistachio, Beef Carpaccio and Gabagool versions, but those will have to wait for our next visit.
Even the Bread service ($8) with assorted fresh breads, whipped lemon ricotta, EVOO and cracked pepper, was tasty and nicely presented.
Of course, a selection of pastas was offered, and we were drawn to a special of the night: Shrimp Ravioli ($31) with orange butter sauce. The plating was artistically done, with orange slices adorning the ravioli, but the pasta was underdone, making it rather chewy.
Four different 12” Pizzas are listed on the menu. Margherita ($21). Meat ($23), White ($21), and Vegetable Pizza ($22), which was our choice. The wood oven-fired crust was crunchy and topped with a generous assortment of roasted veggies and just the right amount of cheese.
An entrée that attracted me was the Airline Chicken ($32), a juicy chicken breast with parsley salsa verde, roasted tomatoes and zucchini. The name derives from the ability to hold the serving in flight. To my taste, this was the dish of the night. The chicken was perfectly cooked: moist and tender, and not at all chewy.
One of our guests chose the Pork Chop ($40), which came with roasted potatoes, grilled tomatoes and Calabrian pepper, and was rewarded with a large juicy cut of meat that he said was “cooked to perfection” and well-seasoned.
A variety of side dishes are listed, each $14. The Warm Potato Salad of fingerling potatoes, with an herb mustard aioli, was a nice riff on the typical potato sides seen elsewhere, and Slow Roasted Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes, with “Catezza seasoning,” were another tasty way to elevate a side dish to demand attention.
There is a drinks list with wines by the glass and bottle, three different Negronis, a variety of gin and tonics, special cocktails and beers. For a white wine we selected a bottle of their 2023 Les Deux Tours, La Doucette Sauvignon Blanc ($56), from the Loire Valley in France. This green and flinty wine was a good aperitif and paired well with the starter dishes. Catezza allows a table of four to BYO one single bottle of wine for a corkage fee of $30, so we brought in a 2002 Ar.Pe.Pe. Roccee Rosse Riserva Sassella, an Italian Nebbiolo-based red from Lombardy, Italy. This had good weight, bright acidity, and lots of mature fruit, making it a very delicious companion to the richer dishes and entrees.
Dessert (all $14) was beckoning, so we picked a Budino di Pane, a bread pudding with caramelized lemon mousse, and Limoncello, with a meringue topping – surprisingly lighter than expected, with just the right amount of creaminess.
We also craved a taste of the Pistachio Gelato which proved to be delicious: rich and luscious, and not overly sweet. A light sprinkle of pistachios on top completed the dish. The taste still lingers in my memory!
Service was extremely kind, informative, and accommodating. Our server explained all the dishes and helped us stage them in successive courses, so as not to overwhelm us with too much food all at the same time. We sat upstairs which eventually become a bit loud as the night wore on due to a large party at the next table, but the noise level in almost all restaurants these days seems to be more than it used to be.
Catezza has made a path of their own, and considering it had only been open a few weeks, it was running quite smoothly. Their food takes many of the Italian dishes we are familiar with, and puts their own twist on them. As a result, we liked them even more in this new presentation. We think this restaurant will be well received by those who dine there.
Catezza Italian
Kitchen & Bar
19 Broad St., Red Bank
catezzarestaurant.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
The article originally appeared in the October 17 – 23, 2024 print edition of The Two River Times.
