By Bob Sacks
Like much of the rest of the world, all of my travel plans have been canceled and put on hold for the present time, as well as the unforeseeable future. Beyond enjoying the sights, a large part of the pleasure of travel is experiencing the food and wines of the country or region that is being visited. So, it seemed like a good idea to assemble an assortment of wines from a favorite place I have visited and create my own wine tour, albeit from my dining room table.
Italy produces so many wonderful wines that it was an ideal choice of country for the foundation of this “travel” experience. Birravino, the very popular Italian restaurant on Riverside Avenue in Red Bank, has a unique, exclusively all-Italian wine list of bottles to-go, which are currently specially priced, so I reached out to one of the owners, Bobby Rallo, who helped me purchase a representative mix of four whites and four reds from them to take home and taste for my adventure Italiano. In no particular order, these were the wines I drank over the course of a few meals.
WHITES
2019 Buglioni Lugana Musa ($17) This is from the Veneto region, and made from the trebbiano (ugni blanc) grape which, coincidentally, is also used to make balsamic vinegar; this lighter-weight wine had a bit less acidity than expected, which created an enjoyable, slighter fuller mouthfeel, while still retaining some minerality and crispness. Would pair well with richer white fish and vegetable dishes, and even a simple roast chicken. Ready to drink now.
2018 Elena Walch Castel Ringberg Sauvignon ($23)
Walch produces a number of highly respected reds and whites. This 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc, single vineyard, from the Alto Adige region, was pale yellow, of medium weight and had a nose of peach and apricot. The finish was not very long, but was still very enjoyable nonetheless. Youthful and easy drinking, it will likely remain so for another four to five years. Paired with an insalata frutta di mare (cold seafood salad), it will also work well with any white fish, mildly sauced pastas or vegetable dishes. This was my favorite white.
2018 Feudo Montoni Inzolia ($18) From Sicily; made from the Inzolia grape, which is more commonly used in Marsala wines. Golden color, crisp and minerally, with medium full mouthfeel and notes of peach and apricot skins. This producer also does two other varietal whites: a Grillo, and a Cattaratto, both of which are interesting, well made, and worth seeking out. Paired with shrimp cocktail and vegetable soup. Ready to drink now.
2018 Benanti Etna Bianca ($22) Pale yellow color; from the slopes of Mount Etna, Sicily; some salinity noted with lower acid, and fuller, more viscous in the mouth; a medium length finish… subtle flavors of apple and tropical fruits. From the Carricante grape, which is said to have been growing there for at least 1,000 years. Pairs with seafood, white sauced pastas or white fish. Drink now.
REDS
2018 Val di Suga Rosso di Montalcino ($22) Sangiovese grape-based from Tuscany; a lighter version of the costlier Brunello di Montalcino, in a good way. A favorite from the assortment of reds; tasted of plums, blueberries, with a trace of bitter chocolate. Paired with roast turkey breast, and a side of sautéed Delicata squash with kale. Would go well with red-sauced pastas as well. Drinking nicely now, and likely to hold another three to five years.
2015 Giacomo Braida Barbera del Monferrato Il Monello ($14) From the Monferrato Estate in the Piedmont area, lighter in body than other Barberas; would be an ideal summer red with a slight chill; easy to drink; flavors of cinnamon and red berries. Paired with grilled salmon, but also would work well with chicken, or even pan-roasted pork chop. An excellent value for the money.
2018 Volpaia Chianti Classico ($23) Sangiovese grape; from Tuscany. Initially somewhat alcoholic on the nose, which blew off after about 30 minutes of air and allowed the fruit to shine through more clearly. A medium-bodied style of Chianti, with light tannins; some mint and pine flavors on the nose. Ideal for pasta with lighter red sauces. Drink now or hold.
2017 Benanti Etna Rosso ($22) Pale, ruby red color, another Sicilian wine grown in volcanic Mount Etna soil; a blend of the regional grapes, Nerello Mascalese (80-85 percent) and Nerello Cappuccio (15-20 percent). This is a subtle wine, with hints of red fruits and good minerality. Will pair well with mild cheeses and pastas, as well as lighter meats. Drink now or hold.
All of these wines represent an attractive quality-to-price ratio. They are very reasonably priced at under $25, and are well-made examples of different grapes from different regions in Italy. This tasting made for a pleasant distraction from the confines of home and my self-imposed restriction on foreign travel right now. It allowed my family and me the opportunity to be temporarily transported to Italy, without having to deal with airports and flying, during this challenging time. Buona Salute!
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in his column, which he will resume when COVID-19 safety guidelines allow. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
The article originally appeared in the February 25 – March 3, 2021 print edition of The Two River Times.
