AMANDA SACKS
Perfectly cooked steak, added to the Fajitas Rajas, with onion and peppers, lime and cilantro was memorable. A favorite guacamole from the menu, the Cantina Guac, included fresh mango, jicama and toasted pepitas.
Come for the setting; stay for the food! Branch Cantina, a Mexican Restaurant in the Wave Hotel, 110 Ocean Ave., Long Branch, is ideally situated just feet off the boardwalk, but a bit further south than Pier Village, bypassing that area’s greater concentration of businesses and visitors. The tables here afford a serene, panoramic view of the ocean and excellent people-watching as folks stroll the “boards.” The setting alone would seem to warrant at minimum, a drink and appetizer, but you would be missing out on the very good, upscale Mexican cuisine if you failed to have dinner there as well.
Sure, your classic favorites are on the menu, but this is elevated street food – the kind you will find on the streets of Mexico City near Chapultepec Park, and then some. Homestyle has been replaced with “Restaurant” style, making this a destination restau- rant as opposed to a simple neighborhood eatery.
There are a few wines by the glass and bottle, white and red sangrias ($12 glass/$39 pitcher), beers and specialty cocktails. But the smart choices, which are the not to be missed, are the margaritas ($12 – $18); the menu lets you build your own, and the de- licious frozen margaritas ($16) in a choice of fruit flavors, as well.
We tried two of the three varieties of guacamole offered: a fresh and creamy traditional Guac ($12) with avocado, red onion, cilantro, lime, jalapeno and cotija (a hard, grated, feta-like cheese) was very good, but the Cantina Guac ($15) was a stand-out. Chunks of mango, jicama, and toasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds), scooped with fresh, crunchy tor- tilla chips, was truly special…my new favorite guac preparation!
Nachos For the Table ($14), are of fered in a variety of iterations. We opted for the Classic: tortilla chips, queso mixto (yummy melted cheese), black beans, tomato, radish, crema and cilantro. You can add chicken, chorizo or shrimp for a small upcharge. This generous portion was enough to serve four diners.
Well-seasoned, seared Chicken breast with Rajas (sautéed poblano strips) made for savory Fajitas.favorite guacamole from the menu, the Cantina Guac, included fresh mango, jicama and toasted pepitas.
From the Something Small section of the menu, the Tuna Ceviche ($16) made with tuna, cucumber, cilantro, peanuts, salsa macha and plantain chips was big and bold. The salsa macha, made with crispy bits of toasted chili peppers, garlic and sesame seeds, lent a strongly spicy element to the dish. If you like spicy, get this. If not, you’ve been warned! Esquites ($9), a staple of Mexican street food, was served here cool, and off the cob, reminiscent of a refreshing corn salad, with lime mayo, queso fresco and tajin (a traditional mix of dry spices). Even the Shrimp Cocktail ($14) was special – extra-large, perfectly cooked and served with a michelada sauce, a riff on a cocktail made with lime, beer, tomato juice and spices.
Street Tacos came in seven variations, each served with three corn tortillas. We chose the Pork Carnitas ($16), a tasty mix of shredded, slow-cooked pork, and mango in a mel- low but flavorful chili sauce. Three pieces of moist Mahi-Mahi ($22) sitting atop pickled cabbage, with a smoky, mild chipotle mayo and topped with crumbled crispy plantain bits, was a favorite of the night.
Sizzlin’ Fajitas Rajas ($22), sautéed onions and peppers, cilantro, soft, warm tortillas and sour cream, can be enjoyed as is, or with the addition of flavorful slices of rare steak ($10), white meat chicken with adobo seasoning ($6) or shrimp ($6).
Don’t miss ordering a side dish of Plantains ($6); cooked to a golden brown, and perfectly caramelized, they were exceptional!
All of this tasty goodness was served by an attentive and very accommodating wait person. After this very enjoyable feast, a walk on the boardwalk, with the cooling sea breezes and crisp ocean air, made for the ideal nightcap.
Sure, you know and like homestyle, or traditional Mexican street food – it’s fun with bold flavors and gives much pleasure, but the food at Branch Cantina, takes this cuisine and raises it up to a whole new level. These are the flavors and textures of that street food, made for eating with plates and napkins, seated at a table, in a casual but refined setting. The plating is very pretty and you can taste all of the individual components of each dish… finesse is an appropriate word to describe many of the offerings here. And, that glorious ocean is just steps away!
BRANCH CANTINA
THE WAVE HOTEL
101 OCEAN AVE.
LONG BRANCH
BRANCHCANTINA.COM
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
This article originally appeared in the July 22, 2021 print edition of The Two River Times.
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