Dinner With Bob

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By Bob Sacks

BOB SACKS
This innovative Burrata dish sported a blueberry drizzle on top and was plated with figs and dried blueberries.

We’ve all been to restaurants that have a great setting and so-so food, and others with great food in a setting that’s nothing special. Happily, Rooney’s Oceanfront Restaurant on Ocean Avenue in Long Branch hits both marks, dishing up some very good food in a truly special setting. There are five or six separate dining areas, ranging from indoors to partially covered to fully open out- side, all with killer views of the Long Branch boardwalk, beach and ocean. The menu, although understandably seafood-dominant, also offers some dishes to please non-fish eaters as well.

There’s a raw bar with oysters, clams, shrimp and various combos, as well as a tempting variety of prepared appetizers, which made it hard not to want to taste all of them! We started with Prince Edward Island Mussels ($15), served with tomatoes in a marinara sauce with white wine and garlic. The large serving bowl was filled to the top with plump, grit-free mussels, which were very tasty; my only disappointment was the number of unopened or barely opened mussels in the portion. Perhaps a bit longer cook time would have prevented this. Very tasty, Tuna Bruschetta ($19), chunks of sushi-grade tuna, with a not-too-spicy guacamole, a touch of wasabi, orange ginger sauce, and dusted with black and white sesame seeds, sat atop toast points which were in turn layered over a Japanese-style seaweed salad; a very enjoyable, attractively plated starter. Recommended.

A pleasant surprise, and our favorite appetizer, was the Burrata ($14). A ball of the creamy cheese, decorated with blueberry puree, sitting on a mound of gold-colored kabocha squash puree, shared the plate with slices of but- tered brioche which car- ried grilled figs and dried blueberries. The contrast of varying textures and fla- vors made this a ver y spe- cial appetizer. A lot going on here – yum! The center of the dinner menu offerings is a “Fish Board.” This is a fun way to create your own entrée. Diners select from a list of the Fresh Catch of the day – Atlantic salmon, shrimp, yellowfin tuna, branzino or halibut – and then pick the preparation that appeals to them: blackened, broiled, grilled or pan-seared. They then opt for the sauce – sweet chili and garlic, salsa verde, lemon butter, angry style or chimichurri – and finally, choose two sides from among garlic-smashed potatoes, broccoli florets, au gratin potatoes, grilled asparagus, or Brussels sprouts. One of my guests selected Grilled Branzino ($38), with chimichurri sauce and a side of grilled asparagus and garlic-smashed potatoes, which was nicely grilled, without being overcooked; another opted for Grilled Halibut ($39) in lemon butter sauce, with potatoes au gratin, whilst another yearned for Pan-fried Halibut ($39) with chimichurri and more of those tasty potatoes augratin. Both good sized portions of the different halibut preparations were perfectly cooked and very tasty.

BOB SACKS
A temptation not to be resisted, the Bread Pudding with ice cream and caramel sauce was a great end to the dinner.

I decided to try the Fresh Catch of Mahi-Mahi ($38), grilled, with salsa verde and asparagus and Brussels sprouts. The thick slab of fish was perfectly cooked, with a nice sear on the outside and a moist, juicy interior. If you are not in the mood to create your own entrée plate, there is also an ample selection of additional entrées, ranging from Wasabi Panko Tuna ($38), Crab Stuffed Flounder ($34) and Rooney’s Crabcakes ($39) to 14-oz. Pork Chop (29), Skirt Steak ($34) and Chicken Theresa ($26), just to name a few. There is also a selection of four pasta offerings, as well as whole Maine lobsters served broiled or steamed, Angry Lobster (all priced according to size), or a 9 oz. Brazilian Lobster Tail ($45). The bar offers a broad selection of both bottled and draft beers, some local; wines by the bottle or glass, sangria, cocktails and mixed drinks. I was drawn to an area on the drink menu labeled Flights, from which I chose ABC (Any- thing but Chardonnay) ($17.50). This consisted of three 3-ounce glasses: Kris Pinot Grigio, S.A. Prum Riesling and Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc. It was fun seeing how each wine paired with my appetizer and entrée. You can even make your own flight of any three wines from those offered by the glass. The same flight concept is offered with three 1.5-ounce pours of three different Bourbons ($16) as well. It was already a lot of food, but for the sake of research we ordered some desserts. Bread Pudding ($10) topped with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and caramel drizzle was a firmer version than the norm, but still satisfying. Key Lime Pie ($10) was pleasant, if not remarkable, and a refreshing Lemon Sorbet with fresh berries and mint ($10) made for a light finale to the meal.

Our server was lively, very accommodating, and eager to do anything to make our experience enjoyable, and she certainly accomplished that. The entire time we enjoyed this food, we also got to drink in a huge full moon illuminating the evening sky and shimmering on the ocean. Of course, outside dining will soon be a thing of the past as the temps drop, so all the more reason to get in last licks now (pun intended). Rooney’s offers good food, while at the same time providing that exceptional view, which is available from any one of their dining areas, inside or out; so, whenever you go, you can enjoy a treat for the eyes as well as for the palate.

The article originally appeared in the November 4 – 10, 2021 print edition of The Two River Times.