By Bob Sacks
A number of folks told me to check out the three-month-old Il Nido in Marlboro, so I went expecting more of the same old red sauce, Southern Italian dishes so prevalent here in New Jersey. Little did I know that these people march to their own drummer and are turning out some very sophisticated and creative Italian food, best described as modern Italian cuisine meets farm-to-table. Sure, it’s not down the street or around the corner, but the relatively quick and easy ride from the Two River peninsula is so worth the trip. Its location in a nondescript strip mall on Route 9 did not prepare us for the warm, cozy rustic farmhouse style of the interior.
We started with Roasted Baby Beet Salad ($16); chunks of red and golden beets, with whipped ricotta, arugula, strawberry sofrito (a somewhat jam-like strawberry sauce), and saba (a reduction of balsamic vinegar). The innovative saucing took this classic appetizer and elevated it to a whole new dimension. Recommended.
Squash Blossoms ($17), stuffed with ricotta and mozzarella, then delicately breaded and fried, sauced with pesto trapanese (the Sicilian version of pesto, with almonds and a touch of tomato instead of pine nuts), then dusted with some Parmesan, were highly flavorful, but as light as a feather, and way too easy to inhale in a bite or two. Memorable!
Another interesting appetizer was the Moeche-Soft Shell Crab ($17); indigenous to Venice in the spring, this deftly sautéed, plump, juicy crustacean was dressed with lardo-pepper agrodolce (a sweet and sour sauce made from cured fatback) and Salmorigilio (a pungent sauce of olive oil, garlic, and oregano). The body was tender, but the legs quite chewy; nonetheless, it was compelling enough to warrant ordering again next time.
My only complaint regarding the Octopus alla Piastra ($19) was that we didn’t order two. Many times octopus can be rubbery; not so here. The pieces of tentacles, cooked on a hot griddle, were perfectly soft and tender and paired with small, round, crispy potatoes and a savory salsa verde.
Calamari Ripeni ($16), squid stuffed with fennel sausage and plated with Broccoletti (Broccolini), and Nduja Salsa Rosa (spreadable pork cold cut and creamy tomato dressing) was not a favorite of the table. The sausage was overcooked and dry, and the calamari overly chewy.
A simple sounding plate of Grilled Broccoli ($14), served up with bagna cauda (a dipping sauce of garlic and anchovies), rabe pesto, and pecorino cheese, was far more than the sum of its ingredients. Crunchy and delectable, it was special.
How could I not order a pasta, enticingly named Black Spaghetti ($26)? Sauced with pieces of sweet crabmeat, green chilis, bottarga (salted, cured, fish roe), and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs, and cooked al dente, this was very enjoyable.
Sharing the plate with five deftly Seared Barnegat Sea Scallops, ($36), was a tasty caponata, eggplant “meatballs” and wild fennel. The cook on these was pretty much flawless, the caponata a tangy counterpoint to the rich scallops.
Chicken ‘Al Mattone’(cooked under a brick) ($29) was crispy, moist and juicy; served with crispy potato gatto (cake), roasted peppers, grilled broccoli and vinegar jus, the generous portion was very good, but would have benefitted from a lighter hand with the salt.
One guest enjoyed the Halibut alla Piastra ($36); a thick slab of meaty white fish done Cuiadedda style (pancetta, fava beans, potatoes, artichoke hearts in a broth).
Il Nido is BYO. In a bid to be ecumenical, we brought and opened a French white wine from one of my favorite producers: 2016 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Comtesse. This sauvignon blanc-based wine has got weight and richness, but also possesses excellent acidity to create ideal balance. It paired well with almost all of the dishes.
Desserts (all $10) were a great surprise. Large enough for three or more diners to share, gorgeously plated and delicious; save room to try a couple of them. Vanilla Semifreddo, a partially-frozen slab of mascarpone encased in two layers of luscious chocolate olive oil cake, with preserved cherries, and a cocoa nib tuile, was superb. The highlight was the chocolate cake. I would hope the pastry chef considers creating an additional dessert that showcases this exceptional baked item as the main attraction. Pistachio cake, with a mascarpone mousse, pistachio gelato, lemon curd and crushed pistachio nuts, was rich, but not overly heavy – a real treat.
It should be apparent by now that this is authentic Italian fare that relies on finesse and creativity to achieve interesting and unusual dishes, not seen elsewhere. As much as possible, the ingredients are sourced from local purveyors. Add in gracious, highly polished service from a caring team, and Il Nido should be considered a destination restaurant, but one that is actually within easy reach.
Il Nido
184 Route 9
North Marlboro
732-851-6347
Ilnidonj.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
