When restaurants open additional locations, they are often a clone of the original in terms of appearance and menu, which many patrons actually find comforting; no surprises means a predictable experience. One Chipotle, Red Lobster or Outback Steakhouse is pretty much the same as another.
So, when I heard that the much beloved, highly rated Yumi of Sea Bright had recently opened another restaurant in Red Bank, at the former site of the first Catch Restaurant on Broad Street, I was very curious to see if this would be a replication of their first venture or perhaps something different. Happily, this iteration is just as good as, and maybe even a step above, the first. If Sea Bright is the “country cousin,” then Red Bank is the “city cousin.” More stylish, with a sleeker look and a broader menu. Many familiar dishes, some with unique variations, and the addition of some new and adventuresome menu items, made for a memorable meal.
Chef and co-owner Shuenn Yang travels a couple of times yearly to seek out the most interesting foods and preparations that he can bring back to his kitchen. He says he wants to introduce the American palate to a wide variety of authentic Pan Asian foods and unique Asian flavors, and based on our meal, he certainly succeeds.
One such example was Madai Finger Lime ($16); thin slices of raw sea bream topped with finger lime (an Australian wild lime whose luminescent pulp is a dead ringer for crunchy pellets of caviar), and plated with microgreens, sea salt and yuzu soy. The textures and tastes were spot on; with a tad less of that fascinating but potent lime topping, this dish would be balanced perfection.
Octopus Carpaccio ($18) was a visual stunner. Wafer-thin disks of octopus, drizzled with roasted garlic oil, and topped with crispy fried cilantro and some sesame seeds, was tender and a real treat to eat.
We also really enjoyed a Scallop Carpaccio ($16); paper thin slices, seasoned with Yuzu Soy, Sea Salt, and a fragrant white truffle oil, sat atop thin disks of cucumber, which lent a nice crunchy contrast to the lush, raw scallop.
Another gorgeous preparation, King Salmon with Sesame-Onion Sauce ($20), micro greens and topped with slices of red radish, also sported some of that addictive white truffle oil.
Warmed Mushroom Salad ($13) provided a nice non-seafood refresher. A mix of perfectly cooked slices of shitake, enoki, and lion’s mane mushrooms, were tossed with mixed greens, and a yuzu butter sauce. Delish.
Don’t miss the pan seared Rice Crispy Tuna ($18); rectangles of crunchy rice provided a base for succulent pink tuna, dressed with chive oil, and kabayaki sauce (a blend of soy, mirin and sugar, resembling teriyaki sauce), and topped with a tiny slice of jalapeno, and were addictive.
A fun dish was the Tuna Sashimi Pizza ($16); a square of flaky scallion pancake, with hunks of raw tuna, kabayaki sauce and squiggles of mayo aioli, was as pretty to look at as it was delicious to eat.
Although hard to pick just one, my dish of the night was the Miso Black Cod ($19), a thick slab of sweet black cod, which has been marinated in miso and mirin, is grilled and served with a spicy miso sauce and black seaweed salad. Yum!
Squares of soft, lightly Fried Tofu ($14), with wok-sautéed carrots, bok choy and crispy lotus root slices in a ginger soy sauce, was real Asian comfort food.
Everyone knows ramen noodles, but Chef Shuenn elevates them to a whole new level with his preparation of Spicy Beef Ramen Soup ($15) with mustard greens. The deep flavors and contrasting textures made this an entirely new taste experience.
My wine preference for Asian cuisine is an off-dry Riesling to contrast with the spiciness, so we opened a 2007 J.J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese from Germany, which had a great balance of acidity and sweetness, not unlike a mildly sweet lemonade. We also tried a 2002 Zind-Humbrecht Heimbourg Riesling from Austria, which was impressive immediately after pouring, but faded quickly in the glass. Past its prime.
Desserts are just as interesting as the rest of the menu. We chose a Banana and Chocolate Pouch ($10).
Chopped bananas and chocolate chips baked in edible rice paper (reminiscent of phyllo), and served with vanilla ice cream, coconut sauce, and fresh berries… a conversation stopper.
Worry not: Valet parking is available!
Which Yumi to choose? Both are BYO and have warm, friendly service. Sea Bright is perhaps more casual, even if the food is quite ambitious; Red Bank also sports a causal vibe, but with a more stylish and upscale atmosphere, and some more unusual dishes for the adventuresome palate. Either way, this style of food is very creative in all respects, at both locations.
YUMI RED BANK
9 BROAD ST.
RED BANK
732-842-8868
YUMIRESTAURANT.COM
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
This review originally appeared in the Nov. 7, 2019 print edition of The Two River Times.
