Review: B2 Bistro of Red Bank

Reviewed by Bob Sacks and Bob Sickles
Jersey Boy, Cesare “Chez” De Chellis, grew up in a food loving Italian family, went to the prestigious Culinary Institute of America, then cooked in some big-name New York restaurants, but his heart stayed back here in New Jersey.
When the pull became too strong, he returned to his roots, and two months ago opened B2 Bistro in Red Bank at the site of the former Sal’s Tavern. The space has been reinvented as a hip Brooklyn-esque bistro and bar with a unique Mediterranean-influenced menu, fresh local ingredients, and a good assortment of ever-changing draft beers, ales, and even a hard cider; there are also special cocktails and wines by the glass or bottle.
The open kitchen and wood-fired, brick pizza oven can be seen from the main dining room, where we enjoyed the chic industrial design; one brick wall features a 15-foot-long built-in “aquarium” simulating glowing briquettes and flames flanked by two tall vertical insets of firewood. There is also a large and lively bar-room with high tables, and a small private space for groups.

The menu indeed offers something for everybody. For starters, we were intrigued by the Roasted Carrots ($7); with za’atar (a zippy Middle Eastern spice blend of thyme, sesame seeds, sumac, and salt), parsley, and lemon. The tender halved baby rainbow carrots came charred, with their tops on, a novel and flavorful presentation that made us want seconds. The Polenta ‘ala Tavola’ ($9) changes periodically, per the chef ’s choice. Ours that night was a conversation stopper – a layer of creamy polenta served on a large wooden pizza dish, with ricotta, currants, and red wine gastrique; the taste of the high- grade corn meal was distinctive. Chef Chez’s family tradition was for everyone to return home at the first snow of the year to make polenta together, so his expertise with this usually one-dimensional dish allows him to transform it into a complex, multi-flavored, experience. Don’t miss it!
Also worthy of a return visit, the Roasted Prawns ($14) were large, and correctly served head-on with a cole slaw of citrus and fennel, flavored with harissa (a spicy and aromatic chili paste widely used in North African and Middle Eastern cooking.) Yes, one of us even loved chewing on those heads and sucking out every last savory morsel, while the other watched with amusement.
The PEI (Prince Edward Island) Mussels ($11) sit in a richly-flavored broth of bacon, beer, and assorted mushrooms. Ask for a soup spoon to enjoy all that creamy liquid. We were quite taken by this unique preparation but wish the mussels had been just a bit larger.
This is such perfect beer food that we suggest choosing a pint or two of whatever interests you, and asking the accommodating and gracious waitstaff for extra water glasses so you can divide it into tasting portions to share; much fun to be had!
Who could resist the name Sweet Pea Pizza ($12): goat ricotta, pea shoots, onion confit, and pea pesto? Like many of the dishes on the adventuresome menu, it was different, flavorful, and a new spin on what one normally expects. Our first time with this pizza, but it will not be our last.
One of the most popular dishes, with good cause, is the Brick Chicken ($19), brined for 24 hours, aged, cooked, and served with brocolini, capers, and potatoes. We have not had a juicier or more tender chicken than this rendition.
The only disappointment was a Dry Aged Burger ($15) ordered medium/rare, but served near-well, causing it to lose much needed moisture. The generous portion of accompanying French fries was very good.
It was a pleasant surprise to find Gnudi ($20) on the menu; little gnocchi-like dumplings that are “naked” of their pasta wrapper, ricotta replacing the potato; like raviolis without anything to enclose them. This version included goat’s milk, truffle, and Madeira, instead of the usual brown butter and sage.
We chose one bottle of white wine, 2014 Loimer “Lois” Gruner Veltliner ($34) from Austria; crisp and minerally, with under tones of pink grapefruit. We also sampled a number of beers, a cider, and an intriguing Barrel Aged Negroni cocktail.
B2 Bistro is a breath of fresh air for the Jersey Shore dining scene. It is serving up innovative food with some never before seen preparations, and doing a very good job of it. For a two month old operation, it is impressive. We will definitely be returning as civilians, and are sure happy that Chez De Chellis decided to come back home and feed us. We had no idea what we were missing!
The two Bobs rate B2 Bistro: Very Good
B2 BISTRO
141 Shrewsbury Ave., Red Bank
732-268-8555
B2Bistro.com
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in the Two River Times bimonthly column.