Review: Restaurant Diomede

1782

Rating: Good
Between “Hell’s Kitchen,” “Top Chef,” “Chopped,” and a myriad of other television cooking shows, there is no shortage of chefs whose faces have become quite familiar to many Americans. When we walked into Restaurant Diomede and caught a look at the chef as he passed by, we were certain we had seen him on TV. We just couldn’t decide which cooking show it had been; and more importantly, if he had won, or gone home early!

Pan-roasted clams in a red sauce. Photo: B. Sacks
Pan-roasted clams in a red sauce. Photo: B. Sacks

The mystery was solved after the conclusion of our meal when we spoke with the very engaging chef, Paul Diomede. We were right! He had been on TV, but all of our guesses were wrong! Paul is an experienced actor who has appeared on “Law and Order,” “The Sopranos,” and a number of other shows and movies. So, what was he doing in the kitchen here in Little Silver? He told us he had cooked at The China Grill in New York, worked in other restaurants there and here, but being a devoted family man, decided that the food business was a more reliable income source than acting. So along with his father, brothers, and sister, he now owns Sea Bright Fish Company, Little Silver Fish Market and Diomede.
After a tasty amuse of butter-poached crabmeat on a mushroom cap, we continued our sampling of his culinary sensibilities with a duo of Pan Roasted Clams ($14), one in red sauce, the other white. Both showed off sweet, tender cherrystones, but the fresh tasting tomato broth with garlic and basil really spoke to us.
Fried Calamari ($11) is a commonplace dish; but here, the tender rings and tentacles are elevated by arriving piping hot, crispy and totally greaseless; served with two dipping sauces: freshly made tomato-based sauce, and creamy chipotle mayonnaise. Indeed, all sauces are made to order, and it shows.
A welcome option on the menu, printed every day to reflect what is fresh in the marketplace, is titled Simply Fish. Diners select which fish or shellfish they want, and choose a sauce: Lemon/butter, Piccata, Fresh Tomato/Basil, Garlic/white wine/butter, or Balsamic Truffle Reduction. We opted for Mahi-Mahi ($24) with Balsamic/truffle, and really enjoyed the two perfectly grilled filets. Of all the sauces, we felt that this combination would be ideal, and it was; its mellow acidity complementing the delicate white fish.

Mahi-Mahi with Balsamic/truffle. Photo: B. Sacks
Mahi-Mahi with Balsamic/truffle. Photo: B. Sacks

A generous portion of Grilled Salmon with Ginger Dijon Mustard ($24) had a nice char, and was cooked medium, still very moist. This classic pairing melded the fragrance of wild ginger and the zip of mustard, making for a satisfying dish.
Grand Marnier Swordfish ($26), blackened by pan searing, had some gentle heat, and retained the orange flavors of the liqueur without being overly sweet.Fans of swordfish will enjoy this preparation.
One of our guests chose the Pork Chop in Merlot Demi-Glace ($26); a naturally raised, French cut chop, grilled and plated with a light, but flavorful merlot sauce reduction. The menu always includes some non-fish entrees.
All of the entrees were served with the vegetables of the day, which were an unexpected treat. A salad of charred, hand-cut corn with grape tomatoes provided a fleeting memory of summer. The flavors of autumn were showcased in hickory-smoked Brussel sprouts, and a creamy smashed red potato from Hlubik Farms, here in New Jersey, was further evidence of Chef Paul’s farm-to-table ethos.
Diomede is a BYO, and since the menu favors white wine, we opened a 2013 Pepiere ‘Clos des Briords’ Muscadet; minerally, but with some rich tropical fruit flavors to keep it from being austere. Our 2012 Ceritas Martin Ray chardonnay was lemony and Chablis-like, with a nose of wet stones and California fruit.

Grilled Salmon with Ginger Dijon Mustard. Photo: B. Sacks
Grilled Salmon with Ginger Dijon Mustard. Photo: B. Sacks

These are great matches for cooked fish, but even more so for shellfish; in the future, including a small selection of raw oysters and clams on the menu would enhance the offerings.
We would also love to see the addition of more large wine glasses, as it would encourage diners to bring some of their best wines to pair with the food.
We chose two desserts made in house by Paul’s sister, Kim Cognata: Key Lime Pie ($7); a savory tart/sweet filling on a buttery graham cracker crust, and a good, not overly-sweet, Apple Pie ($7).
The refurbishing of the room, formerly Ray’s Seafood, has updated the look. Paneling has been painted over, and the walls are a soothing brown, with hanging tea candles and soft lighting. The addition of table clothes also makes for a warmer experience.
So when you walk into Restaurant Diomede and see a man who frequently played a “bad guy,” have no fear; Paul Diomede is really a “good guy,” and a good chef as well!

The Two Bobs rate Restaurant Diomede: Good
RESTAURANT DIOMEDE

125 Markham Place

Little Silver, NJ 07739

(732) 741-1900

Ratings: Good, Very Good and Excellent
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column.