Most restaurants and bars fit into a single category: fine dining, casual eatery, bar/saloon, fast food, etc. Lana, a beachfront restaurant in Pier Village, Long Branch, is in a class all its own and comes across as a mixture of all the above.
The high-ceilinged downstairs room appears to be essentially a softly lit large bar with a nightclub feel, with some small tables inside and out front and a few more upstairs. The menu lists both some simple dishes and some more complex preparations. It became apparent as we ordered and tasted our selections that the chef, Daniel Schreiber, is very accomplished and is preparing dishes far more sophisticated than the menu and surroundings might suggest.
From the Shareables section of the menu we chose a sampler: Mediterranean Meze ($18), as it seemed a good way to try a variety of things in one dish, and we were not disappointed! Each of the three selections was a unique take on Middle Eastern dips – herb tahini, beet hummus, mint tzatziki – and was accompanied by feta, olives, pickled vegetables and pita chips. It was a generous assortment of some very tasty items. The presentation was colorful and appetizing. The sesame seed-based tahini was creamy and flavorful with the addition of fresh herbs. Vibrant red beet hummus took the traditional recipe up a notch and was a favorite of the table. The yogurt-based mint tzatziki substituted mint for the usual dill and was very refreshing. Highly recommended!
Another shareable was the Tuna Tartar ($19). Large chunks of sushi-grade tuna sat atop avocado, cucumbers and capers, surrounded by wasabi and microgreens and accompanied by wonton chips. The tuna was the star of the plate and was finished quickly.
Five Crispy Coconut Shrimp ($16) were classically prepared with a Thai chili sauce on the side. The coconut was such a good companion to the sweet shrimp; the sauce became incidental.
Several other intriguing-sounding dishes from the Shareables section of the menu were also tempting, but a modest degree of sanity prevailed and we decided to return another time to try the Vegetable Spring Rolls ($13) with mixed vegetables, glass noodles, soy, sesame and garlic sauce, as well as the Chili Crisp Wings ($15) served with scallions, sesame and lemon aioli. We also displayed some further restraint and reluctantly did not order a side dish of delicious-sounding Truffle Parmesan Fries ($10) made with white truffle oil and herbs… next time for sure!
Three Pizzas were offered on the menu, so as a middle course we chose the Margarita ($16) – classic field tomatoes, mozzarella, basil and extra virgin olive oil over a thin crust. Perfectly cooked with a nice crunch, it made for a tasty dish. There were also Prosciutto and Arugula ($19) with burrata, shaved parmesan and herb olive oil, as well as Pepperoni ($17) with marinara and mozzarella, but those will have to wait for a return visit.
For entrees, we picked an assortment of Plates. Gnocchi Mac and Cheese ($22) was a Chef’s Special and was worthy of the designation. It was prepared with cacio e pepe sauce (cheese and black pepper), preserved lemon, breadcrumbs and pink peppercorns. The uniqueness of the dish made it special indeed, and it disappeared very quickly. My guests kept “stealing” the crispy Brussels sprouts, which accompanied my Miso Marinated Salmon ($27). Scallions and lime completed the plate. The nice-sized chunk of salmon was cooked perfectly rare as requested and was juicy and tender.
Ancho Rubbed Lamb Lollipops ($27) came with smashed sweet potatoes and mint chimichurri sauce. The medium rare lamb chops were well-seasoned and definitely not the usual lamb dish one expects. Highly recommended.
The wine by the glass list is succinct and well-chosen. We had the Kendall Jackson Chardonnay ($14), which had a buttery quality that worked well with most of the dishes. The Caposaldo Moscato ($12) had a flowery nose and was quite aromatic. It worked perfectly with Gnocchi Mac and Cheese. This Italian white is creamy, with a bit of spritz.
The dessert menu tempted us with a Vanilla Bourbon Cake ($10), Raspberry Vanilla Cheesecake ($10) and a Gluten Free Caramelo Cake $10). Each came with a caramel drizzle, but we had ordered so many things to try first that we opted to return another time to try one or two of the sweet endings.
To further add to the “something for everyone” quality of Lana, there are bands playing live music a few nights a week, and a DJ spinning records the other nights.
The service was warm and friendly, the portions generous, and our waitperson very helpful in navigating the menu. The proximity to the oceanfront and its seeming multiple personalities make Lana special, but the obvious time and attention to the food is reason enough to visit this one-of-a-kind restaurant. The chef is clearly very talented!
Lana
Pier Village
32 Laird St.
Long Branch
lanapiervillage.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
