By Bob Sacks
In case you hadn’t noticed, South Beach Miami has come to the Long Branch oceanfront. As we sat at an umbrellaed table outside the two-week-old 100 Ocean Restaurant in the brand-new Wave Resort, alongside the boardwalk on a warm and sultry June night, and watched the Rollerbladers, strollers and fashionistas passing by, it was hard to equate it with what used to be. The Pier Pub, Haunted Mansion, Leon’s Amusements, Big Al’s Hot Dogs and the pier itself are but dim memories, all having been destroyed in an epic fire in 1987. After decades of barrenness, Pier Village has finally stimulated much new residential construction just north and south of it and there is now an entirely new vibe to the area. 100 Ocean takes a casual, hip, party-like approach to dining, but make no mistake: they are quite serious about their food. The large industrial-chic room has high open ceilings and a good-sized bar area for drinking and eating, as well as an outside dining area.
A simple sounding Fava Bean Hummus ($14) with falafel spice and whole grain pita triangles was excellent. The creamy green puree paired perfectly with the pleasantly chewy pitas.
Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice ($14) with scallion and sesame was flavorful and properly crunchy, even if not totally original in concept: little cubes of firm rice, serving as a base for hunks of tangy tuna sushi.
A generous portion of Ahi Tuna Tartare ($16) with crushed avocado, slices of crisp lotus root and a citrusy lemon dressing was very well executed, with the fresh-tasting tuna showcased as the star of the dish.
We really enjoyed the Whole Wheat Flatbread topped with calamyrna fig, prosciutto, arugula and caramelized onion ($16). This riff on pizza was totally original and delicious. Highly recommended. One of my dishes of the night.
Of the two pastas offered that night, we chose the Maine Lobster Rigatoni ($27). Lots of chunks of sweet lobster meat, lightly sauced with house-made lobster stock and mixed with pancetta and sweet peas, was luxurious and deeply flavored, but I would have preferred the preparation with a more delicate pasta, such as linguine or spaghettini, instead of the thicker rigatoni, to better balance the tender lobster.
An entrée of Grilled Branzino ($29) in a citrus brown butter sauce with haricot verts and Marcona almonds was one of the best pieces of this European sea bass I have had in recent memory. The fish was sparkling fresh, perfectly cooked, juicy and moist. Not to be missed.
Roast Chicken Tagine ($24) was under-seasoned despite the use of vadouvan, a curry-based spice blend: this traditional Moroccan dish of chicken pieces braised with spices, garlic, onion, olives and preserved lemons was juicy and well cooked, but unexciting. It wanted a more aggressive use of apricots, ginger, cinnamon and cumin to create the familiar mix of sweet and savory we were used to tasting. A work in progress.
A large portion of Skirt Steak Alla Griglia ($27) with blistered potatoes and salsa verde won high praise from most of our table. The rare, tender beef, enhanced by the piquant salsa verde sauce, provided much pleasure.
Hearth Roasted Salmon ($27), a thick piece, with heirloom tomatoes, capers and a fennel cream, was cooked medium rare as requested and very enjoyable.
We were pleasantly surprised by the sophistication of the side dishes. Roasted Cauliflower ($8) with tahini yogurt, mint and orangehad layers of complex flavors and a great texture. Crisp Brussel Sprouts ($12) with blistered tomatoes and a white balsamic vinaigrette were also perfectly cooked and memorable.
The wine list was interesting; there were wines from smaller producers, not just the usual big houses. We found an excellent 2018 Vermentino Casamatta Bianco ($39), an Italian white from Bibi Graetz, a highly respected winemaker. The refreshing acidity, with aromas of stone fruits and lemons, made for an ideal companion to many of the dishes we sampled.
Desserts were a happy experience. Summer Fruit Panna Cotta ($8) with a strawberry/blueberry/raspberry compote on top of the vanilla-basil sweetened cream, was a perfect seasonal finale, but one of my chocaholic guests also insisted on ordering the Chocolate Pot de Crème ($8); the lush, bittersweet chocolate pudding with crushed pistachios, whipped cream and two decadent shortbread cookies on top was exceptional. Don’t miss this!
For a restaurant open only two weeks the night of our visit, 100 Ocean served up some surprisingly sophisticated food with highly polished, easy-going, friendly service. Not everything was perfect, but I have to assume that if it is this good at the outset, it will only get even better with the passage of time, meriting an even higher rating. Sure, I miss those classic boardwalk places of my youth, but this new direction of Florida casual cool, is hard to resist.
100 Ocean
100 Ocean Ave.
Long Branch
732-795-6618
100-Ocean.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob
