Some restaurants may feature a few of the most popular dishes from Peru, like ceviche, on their menus, but it is unique to find one that is dedicated solely to the full range of foods from that country.
This creates a situation where many diners are not familiar with the wide range of Peruvian dishes, and even less well-versed in their authenticity when they get to taste some of them in various restaurants. So, unless they are adventurous eaters, they might miss out on a very enjoyable dining experience. One of the guests that accompanied me to Ceviche House Peru on Broad Street in Red Bank had a strong knowledge of these delicious dishes and she served as a “tour guide” of the menu for us.
Indeed, ceviche originated in Peru and is the country’s national dish. Pieces of raw fish, which have been marinated in key lime juice, are served with sliced onions and chili peppers. The essentials of the cuisine also include corn, potatoes, beans and quinoa and other similar grains. Peru has the widest variety of potatoes in the world and makes full use of them in a range of dishes.
Happily, the staff at Ceviche House are incredibly knowledgeable, kind, caring and much fun to interact with, as well. Our primary server explained all the nuances of each dish and helped us assemble a very tasty sampling of the menu.
An appetizer of Tamal de Cerdo ($8), was a corn dough tamale stuffed with bits of pork. The generous portion was enough to share with the table so everyone got a taste. It was not overly spicy, and the corn (masa) dough was irresistible, drawing us back for just one more taste!
Ceviche en 3 Ajies ($30), was a sampler of traditional Peruvian ceviches topped with yellow rocoto (red pepper) cream sauce. Our server suggested we try this selection to better experience three different ceviches. The fish and shrimp were lightly marinated and very fresh-tasting. One of these, the Leche de Tigre even included sweet potatoes and corn in the traditional style. There are other ceviche dishes offered on the menu as well.
An intriguing Papa Rellena ($10), a croquette of mashed potato stuffed with minced beef, raisins, olives and hard-boiled egg, was pan fried, and accompanied by a salsa criolla (bell pepper-based sauce). One of my guests loved the texture of these and said that they literally melted in their mouth. Recommended.
The entrée portion of Arroz con Mariscos ($27), a paella-style rice simmered with white wine and seafood broth, was a very generous serving. My guest opted for a combination of shrimp, calamari and mussels; octopus was also an option in the dish. A spicy sauce was served on the side in case the diner wanted to control the heat, and yes, it was hot! If you love very spicy, enjoy.
Sudado de Pescado ($20), the Catch of the Day, was served steamed with onions, tomatoes and cilantro, and a side of white rice. This evening the fish was red snapper. A large portion, again big enough to share, was moistened by a delicious broth. For diners looking for a lighter entrée, this would be a good choice. It was filling but not heavy.
Octopus, Pulpo a la Parrilla ($30), arrived as one large grilled tentacle, with Peruvian potatoes, cherry tomatoes and chimichurri sauce. The grilled octopus was very tasty but gave up much of the plate to the potatoes. As good as they were, I wished for at least one more large tentacle to allow it to be the star the dish, with the potatoes as the supporting cast.
A dish of comfort food, Tallarin Saltado ($26), stir-fried noodles with strips of beef tenderloin, onions, tomatoes, cilantro and soy sauce, got high marks from one diner. He declared it hearty and very satisfying. The portion was, once again, very generous.
Ask your server about the selection of desserts of the day. We chose two of them to share from the list of offerings. Tres Leches cake ($8) did not disappoint. Made from the traditional recipe, it was creamy and sublimely moist – very juicy and moist. The chef put his own twist on traditional Flan ($8), serving it on a disk of dark chocolate cake. A vanilla version was also available, but we craved some sinful chocolate.
Ceviche House Peru is BYO, so it felt appropriate and fun to bring Spanish wines for dinner. For a white wine, we opened a 2021 Muga Blanco from the Rioja region. It was fruity, but not sweet, had good acidity and enough weight to make a great pairing for many of the fish-based dishes. One of my guests graciously brought and opened a 2001 Montecillo Gran Riserva Rioja. This red wine was fully mature; it was of medium weight, with fully integrated tannins, was pleasantly fruity and nicely complemented the dishes which were meat based.
It was a very delicious evening of food and a great learning experience as well. Ceviche House Peru serves a broad variety of authentic Peruvian dishes in a relaxed, casual atmosphere. If you are knowledgeable about this kind of food, you will appreciate what they have done here. If you are not, take the plunge and let your meal be a very tasty learning experience. I am confident you will be won over, too!
51 Broad St.
Red Bank
cevichehouseperu.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
This article originally appeared in the November 30 – December 6, 2023 print edition of The Two River Times.
