By Bob Sacks
Pat Trama could have played it safe. Well-known for his four-star Tuscan-inspired Italian restaurants in the area, the current one being Trama’s Trattoria in Long Branch, he could have used this new space in Highlands simply as another iteration of the same type of cuisine he has done before, and once again received high praise. Instead, he has used this incredible space, a large, open and airy structure, sitting directly on Sandy Hook Bay, to inspire him to create an entirely new menu and approach to dining.
His new venture is classic Jersey Shore seafood house with fine food served in a casual, fun setting. This is not Cucina Italiana; here you will find a raw bar, multiple fresh catch of the day offerings, salads and appealing appetizers from the sea. There are inside and outside bars, inside and outside tables, and a view to die for. There is even live music on the weekends.
We started with Tuna Poke Tacos ($15); three crunchy corn tortilla shells, holding cubed tuna, pickled vegetables, and avocado mousse, were a nice change of pace.
Don’t miss the Maryland Crab Cake ($19); a fat disc of pure, sweet crabmeat with no discernible bread filler that arrived with a fresh corn pico de gallo (corn salad), and a spicy remoulade, was a favorite of our entire table. Excellent!
We also loved the Fried Belly Clams ($19); the whole clams, not just the strip, lightly breaded and fried until golden brown, crispy and sweet, served with house-made tartar sauce, were impossible to stop eating. The crunchy outside and tender, grit-free inside made for an excellent contrast of textures.
Crunchy Spring Roll ($16), hunks of Gulf shrimp, cabbage and cilantro, with a sweet and sour tamarind glaze, was spicy in some bites and not in others.
A very credible New England Clam Chowder ($9) made with clam broth, bacon, white wine, fennel, potato and cream, was lush, but not overly rich. A good balance of smoky broth to clams and veggies yielded a very enjoyable bowl of soup.
I did not expect the Willow Chopped Salad ($11) to be as interesting as it was. Romaine lettuce, English cucumber, cherry tomatoes, radish, a bit of red onion and a sprinkle of feta cheese, bound with a lively lemon vinaigrette, offered up myriad flavors and textures in each and every mouthful. Delicious!
From fresh catch choices, served broiled, with baked potato and Napa Cabbage Coleslaw, one of my guests chose Branzino ($26). Fileted and then cooked with the crispy skin on, which was easily removed before eating, if desired, made for perfectly moist and juicy fish.
I was more than happy with the Seared Sea Scallops ($28), served on a roasted zucchini “boat,” with an addictive smoked tomato coulis and basil oil. The five good-sized, perfectly browned scallops were sweet and tender and set off perfectly by the smoky, gently acidic coulis.
The Fish of the Day was mahi-mahi, available simply broiled or in Fish Tacos ($21), which is what one of my adventuresome guests chose. Three corn tortillas held the fish, a chili lime crema, pico de gallo, and cotija cheese (traditional Mexican), yielding a crackly shell with a soft and tasty filling. A side of perfectly done French fries completed this entrée.
An entrée of Roasted Halibut ($29), plated with clam pistou (clams, cloves, garlic and basil), crispy potatoes, and chorizo oil, arrived as a thick slab of snowy white fish underneath the golden exterior. As good as it was, it would have been even better with two minutes less cook time.
There is an extensive wine, beer and cocktail list. I really enjoyed the 2018 Foucher-Lebrun Sancerre Le Mont ($56), a sauvignon blanc-based white from France’s Loire Valley. Plenty of fruit, with a touch of citrus-like acidity, and none of the usual sauvignon grassiness, it was an excellent foil to most of our dishes.
For dessert, the Warm Chocolate Cake ($11), with pistachio ice cream and chocolate sauce was sinfully rich and delicious. Easily shared by a couple of diners.
We also liked the Warm Strawberry Rhubarb Cob- bler ($8) with a topping of brown sugar crumble and vanilla bean gelato.
Those readers who have fond memories of Doris and Ed’s, which used to be a stone’s throw away from this new restaurant, will be reminded that there was a void in our area for many years once that iconic establishment closed. With the recent launch of Trama’s at One Willow, this area of Highlands is once again home to well-conceived and executed seafaring cuisine in a lively waterfront setting. Come for the view and a drink, but stay for the food! It’s that good!
Trama’s at One Willow
One Willow Street
Highlands
732-730-7770
Tramasatonewillow.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this bimonthly column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
