Having dined with great pleasure at Maya, the recently closed, exceptional oceanfront restaurant on the Caribbean Island of St. Bart’s, with its emphasis on fresh, simply prepared local foods, I had a feeling of déjà vu to eat at Maya, located in the Wave Hotel, Long Branch, also facing the Ocean.
Indeed, the name and general concept makes it quite apparent that it was chosen by Chef Nina Clemente to pay homage to the renowned Chef Maya Gurley, under whom she had worked. Born in Italy, and growing up in New York, Chef Clemente has served in the kitchens of other highly respected restaurants in New York and California as well, and her menu reflects her vast experience. The coastal Mediterranean food is simple and sophisticated at the same time. The presentation is very pretty, but the dishes are not overwhelmed by too many ingredients on the plate; the unique taste of each remains distinct and is allowed to shine through. Day-to-day operation of the kitchen is overseen by Executive Chef Dan Schreiber.
It was a beautiful summer night, so we chose an outside table and were treated to the moon and stars shining over the ocean, and 5-star service by our personable and highly knowledgeable server.
From the Starters we chose Big Eye Tuna Sashimi ($21) presented with preserved lemon, avocado and radish slices. This artistic preparation of stacked layers of thin slices of tuna made for a light but very flavorful dish with nice texture and freshness.
A large tentacle of Grilled Octopus ($28), with Romesco sauce (charred tomatoes, roasted red peppers, toasted almonds and bread), roasted potatoes, celery slaw, and salsa verde got high marks from one of my guests for being tasty, tender and not overly salty.
Local Burrata & Eggplant Caponata ($18) arrived as a large mound of soft, creamy burrata dusted with basil, sitting atop chunks of mildly spiced eggplant with some toasted sourdough bread on the side…a nice mix of textures and layers of flavors. There were also a variety of shellfish offerings from the Raw Bar but we were saving room for the other food.
Who could resist Stone Fruit & Heirloom Tomato Salad ($18) with local bee pollen, basil pesto, goat cheese and dressed with raspberry vinaigrette? Cubes of nectarines, pieces of plums and tomatoes, with crumbled goat cheese and pignoli nuts provided a true taste of summer. A favorite dish. We were also drawn to the salad of Tuscan Kale & Fennel ($18), with radish, hazelnuts and champagne vinaigrette; a simple dish with just-picked freshness. All of these starters were generously sized and easily shared by our table of four.
Za’atar Lamb Chops ($42) were served with an Israeli salad and mint tahini. Za’atar is a blend of herbs and spices prevalent in Middle Eastern cooking, with sesame, chickpea, salt, mint, fennel and other spices in the blend. The Israeli salad, a mix of pureed tomato, onion, cucumber and peppers, was a novel variation of the usual finely diced presentation. Our only disappointment with the three large chops was that they were overly rare on the inside, and well done on the outside. Perhaps this was cooked as part of a rack of lamb, and fired too quickly over too-high heat. Cooking temperature was not an issue with the Branzino ($38); juicy and moist, the nice-sized portion of skin-on filet shared the plate with a pool of asparagus salsa verde, whole asparagus stalks and a sunflower sprout garnish. Very tasty!
We also enjoyed the Arctic Char ($34), a thick piece of moist fish with a beet-citrus salsa and dill tomato bulgur wheat. The diced salsa of golden and red beets and signature fresh herbs provided a tangy counterpoint to the crispy skinned fish. Don’t miss this less-often seen fish.
Fennel Encrusted Tuna ($38) with heirloom tomatoes, capers, red onion and gigante beans was plated with meaty slices of tuna which were nicely rare in the middle, and garnished on both sides with a salad of the vegetables – this should make tuna lovers very happy.
Two side dishes beckoned to us: Rainbow Carrots ($10), served with a tangy mint yogurt and sprinkled with nuts and spices, were served whole and cooked to perfection. We also tried the Beluga Lentils ($10), prepared with sofritto (a fine mix of sauteed carrots, celery and onion), and aged balsamic vinegar; there was plenty for sharing.
There is an in-depth wine list with a number of interesting wines, especially Italian ones, by the bottle and glass. We opted for a refreshing bottle of 2020 Donnafugata Anthilia, a white Sicilian blend of two grapes, which was fruity and crisp, but not overly sweet.
An Extra Virgin Olive Oil Cake ($10), plated with a scoop of orange sorbet and a drizzle of olive oil, arrived as three disks of pastry which unfortunately were baked just past the point of doneness, rendering them dry. Not so the Flourless Chocolate Cake ($10) with maple whipped cream and berries which was like a rich brownie with crisp edges and moist interior. There is also a nice selection of locally made sorbets and creamy gelatos from Lola’s European Café in Asbury Park from which to choose.
Maya creates an irresistible combination of gorgeous oceanfront setting, the generous use of local ingredients and freshly prepared, healthful Mediterranean seasonal cuisine, all blended into a single dining experience, making it more than worthy of the namesake which inspired it.
Maya
110 Ocean Ave. N.,
Long Branch
maya-longbranch.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
The article originally appeared in the August 18 – 24, 2022 print edition of The Two River Times.
