Over the years I have run or biked from the entrance gate or the first parking lot to the tip of Sandy Hook and back, but obviously, never at night, so it was a unique experience to drive that same route in total darkness to find the newly opened Mule Barn restaurant/bar at the very end of “The Hook.”
I marveled at the lack of lighting and signs as we drove the secluded, and now unfamiliar-looking road, for what seemed like an extraordinarily long time before we finally found a brightly lit building with a very full parking lot. There was also a large outdoor patio seating area which allows for broad water views of Sandy Hook Bay in warm weather. A superb restoration of this former vintage 1800s barn, which housed mules and horses to help move weaponry at Fort Hancock, has created a warm and welcoming atmosphere for this establishment. There are two floors and we were seated upstairs, which was quieter, with more spread-out seating.
The menu is broad and varied and takes traditional tavern food to a more elevated level.
From the appetizer section of the regular menuwe started with Tavern Calamari ($16). The greaseless, crunchy rings were perfectly cooked and served with hot pepper and lemon slices, marinara sauce and remoulade on the side. The generous portion allowed our party to easily share the dish.
One of my guests was eager to try the Pork Belly Sliders ($16). The three sliders were glazed with a Honey Ginger Siracha Sauce and then topped with Asian Coleslaw (rice wine vinegar and sesame oil instead of mayo) and sliced jalapeno. The flavor was spot on, the pork very tasty, but the ratio of bread to filling prompted my guest to eat much of the filling without the rolls to save room for other dishes yet to come.
I really enjoyed the Tuna Nachos ($19); cubes of marinated tuna sat atop a bed of pieces of nacho chips, and were mixed with sliced jalapenos, avocado and sesame seeds. This was then drizzled with wasabi and ponzu sauce and dusted with cilantro leaves. The different flavors and variety of textures created an appetizer that drew me back each time for another taste; once again, the portion was large enough to share with our party.
We were also drawn to the Ceviche ($21) which had a base of three tostadas, topped with shrimp and octopus, over a bed of avocado. This was topped with sliced radishes and chipotle mayo. The plating was very artistic; it was almost too pretty to eat, which would have been a shame, because the taste was delicious. Each bite was a treat!
There is a wide selection of Pizzas offered in that section of the menu – 14-inch size and 10-inch – with gluten-free crusts. It was hard to choose which of the 10 choices presented, but we finally picked the Portobello Pizza ($18) to share, for a middle course. It was topped with fresh mozzarella, marinated portobello mushrooms, roasted red pepper, caramelized onions, pesto sauce, a drizzle of balsamic glaze and a layer of fresh arugula. The crust was properly crispy and each ingredient was clearly discernible. Recommended! Some of the other Pizza choices were: Burrata, Buffalo Chicken, Lobster Mac and Cheese, Meatlovers and Lighthouse. These all sounded tempting enough to warrant a return visit.
I chose Crab Cakes ($32) for my entrée and was rewarded with two good-sized cakes, which were mostly crabmeat and very little filler. They shared the plate with crunchy green beans, creamy mashed potatoes and a small glass bowl of remoulade sauce. I was very happy with this choice.
One guest opted for the BBQ Ribs ($24). This large ½ rack of ribs was indeed smoky and tender and arrived with a side of coleslaw and sweet fries. The portion was so large that he could not finish it all. He enjoyed the flavors, and other than wishing for a bit less of the barbecue sauce covering the top of the meat to let the meat shine through, he was very happy.
One section of the regular menu lists Handhelds, which included a number of burgers, as well as a Grilled Chicken Sandwich ($18) which called out to another of our companions. A hoagie roll contained the chicken along with Swiss cheese, frizzled onions, honey Dijon mustard and bacon. She commented that its variety of flavors made this sandwich unique and a meal in itself.
There was also a separate menu of interesting sounding Nightly Specials.
From the wine list we chose a J. Lohr Sauvignon Blanc ($12/glass) which had crisp acidity and tropical fruit flavors, for the white wine, and J. Lohr Pinot Noir ($12/glass) for the red. The taste of raspberry, cherry and pepper made for an interesting palate.
There was a dessert menu, but we were too full to explore it at this visit. Ask your server for the selections.
Mule Barn Tavern is steeped in the history of Sandy Hook and Fort Hancock and worthy of a visit. The location, historical significance and very tasty menu are reason enough. After you go for dinner once, at night, you will find that drive down the dark and curvy road is the start of an adventure – a fun one!
Mule Barn Tavern
36 Kearney Road
Highlands
Mulebarntavern.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
This article originally appeared in the December 14 – 20, 2023 print edition of The Two River Times.
