2nd Flr. Restaurant
Rating: Very Good
How does he do it? The restaurant is packed, but Sam Nativo Jr., chef and co-owner of 2nd Flr., works alone in a tiny kitchen but still manages to cook and plate hot, fresh, very good food, and get it out in a timely fashion. He even slips out periodically to see how each table is enjoying their meal. Very impressive! Granted, it is not a large space, but seriously, how does this man do it? We have no idea, but his delicious food speaks for itself.
We stand in front of Mixx Bar, a well-established neighborhood fixture on Brighton Avenue in the West End section of Long Branch and spot a glass door off to its right, with a small sign which aptly says “2nd Flr. Restaurant,” a more recent endeavor by the bar’s owners. Ascending a dimly lit, somewhat steep set of stairs, we arrive at a small landing which, in turn, opens into what looks all the world like a New York City Supper Club, circa 1960. The front room has a good-size bar with stools for dining and some nicely appointed tables; there is a smaller back room with more tables that can also be reserved for private parties of 10-12. If the curtains, lighting, and furnishings make it look like Don Draper’s living room, the space was indeed an apartment in which the owners lived, before they transformed it into an intimate, 28-seat, retro-vibe restaurant; happily, no loud noise, or overbearing background music, just satisfying food and a warm, friendly staff to greet and serve us.
Michael Bienz, the other co-owner, covers the front of the house, with abundant charm and wit; every diner in the room treated like a guest in his home.
The inventive, eclectic American menu lists seven appetizers and seven entrees, and there are a couple of nightly specials as well. The crunchy, skinny breadsticks are memorable, and perfect to snack on with a drink while perusing the menu, instead of filling up on the usual breadbasket offerings.
We opted to start with the Grilled Baby Octopus ($13/26), served over not-too-spicy homemade, crumbled chorizo, fresh cannellini beans, blistered cherry tomatoes and crumbs of feta cheese. The octopus was delicious; tender and juicy, only needing a trace more char to achieve perfection.
How could we resist the intriguingly named Bacon, Eggs, and Toast ($12); savory and meaty Pork Belly with tangy BBQ sauce¸ atop chunky deviled egg salad, with grilled sourdough bread underneath as the “Toast?” The flavors and textures played off one another, making it one of our favorite dishes.
House made pasta ($14/28) is available as appetizer or main course. It’s generally ravioli, with various fillings changing weekly. We were fortunate enough to eat the perfectly al dente packets filled with cauliflower and burrata, sauced with cream and white truffle. Rich, but stopping short of being too much so, the silky texture of the pasta compelled us to finish it all.
Our favorite main course was the Atlantic Salmon ($28), a generous portion with a balsamic glaze, piquant Sicilian eggplant Caponata, white bean ragout, and encircled by bright green spinach oil; all making for a zesty counterpoint to the richness of the fish.
The Hangar Steak ($29), medium rare as ordered, was plated with Smoked Blue Cheese Mayo, Roma tomatoes and crispy, double dipped, hand-cut french fries. The ample piece of juicy beef was tender and nicely seared.
If you still have room for dessert, they are all homemade; the charming Lemon Ricotta Cheesecake ($8) was light and creamy; with a shortbread crust and blueberry- ginger compote; it was good enough to stand on its own without the addition of whipped cream. We were sorely tempted to try the Fried Granny apple pie, but decided it was a just another reason to come back again.
2nd Flr. has a full service bar and offers interesting cocktails and dessert drinks as well. The wine list is short, but reasonably well curated, with a nice selection of wines by the glass.
We opted for a pleasantly full-bodied and smooth white, 2012 Michele Chiarlo Gavi ($36/11 glass), and a Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc ($28/9 glass) from New Zealand. Crisp and refreshing, with the characteristic grassy-herbal finish, it was the perfect aperitif.
Dinner is only served three nights a week – Thursday, Friday, and Saturday – and with so few seats, reservations a must.
If you want to take a trip back in time but with a contemporary meal in a comfortable and stylish 60’s townhouse, then we think you will enjoy an evening spent at the 2nd Flr. Perhaps after you eat there, you can tell us how Chef Sam does it!
The Two Bobs rate the 2nd Flr. Restaurant: Very Good
2nd Floor Restaurant
71A Brighton Ave.,
Long Branch
732-443-7399
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column. Read their reviews here.
