By Bob Sacks
What do Dominican fare and Ethiopian cuisine have in common? Absolutely nothing, unless you are fortunate enough to have booked a table at Ada’s Gojjo in Asbury Park, where Adanech Asghedom (Ada) and her husband Muller, have relocated their fusion restaurant, after nine years in Long Branch.
Yes, she offers an extensive selection of choices from both of those countries, and with good cause. Formerly an accountant in Ethiopia, Ada and her husband moved here and bought a tiny storefront/takeout eatery in Long Branch which served only Dominican food. Never mind that she had never cooked that food before; she is so talented that she learned the recipes and perfected them in short order. Not one to be content with “small” accomplishments, Ada then decided to serve the food of her homeland a few nights a week as well. Fast-forward to last summer, with a move to Asbury Park and the creation of a new, pretty, tastefully decorated restaurant, serving this duality of specialties every night of the week except Mondays. If you visit on Friday or Saturdays, there is even live guitar music. We were totally taken by the music and song performed by the incredibly talented Kevin Koczan the night of our visit. Impressive!
Chicken Empanadas ($3.50), two crunchy fried triangles of pastry enclosed a deeply flavored filling of shredded chicken; a zippy house-made dipping sauce completed the dish. Recommended.
Mofongo is offered two ways, Traditional ($8) and Vegan ($7.50); green plantains are fried and then mashed with garlic and chicharron (pork rind), or without the meat. This dish needs the pork rinds to provide interest and flavor, so unless you are vegetarian, order that version.
I really enjoyed the Yucca Cakes ($9); four crusty discs of lightly fried yucca (cassava) served with Ada’s Dominican Salsa. Resembling a potato pancake, these had lots of flavor and great texture.
Two interesting salads were notable. Azifa ($7), a traditional Ethiopian salad of whole lentils, onions, tomatoes and a touch of jalapeno, in olive oil and lime dressing, was surprisingly addictive; each mouthful calling me back for another. Even the Beet Salad ($8), cubes of chilled cooked red beets and raw onions, which had been pickled in oil and vinegar, and seasoned with Ethiopian spices (ginger, coriander, red chili, paprika, garlic), was novel tasting.
Not to be missed, the Vegetable Sampler Platter ($34) offers a choice of six remarkable vegetarian dishes from the seven on the menu, served on a huge round of injera (thin, flat sourdough bread made from Teff flour that is slightly spongy and mildly tangy) with a side of green salad and more of that excellent beet salad. The proper way to eat this is to tear off a piece of injera, then pick up and fold the veggies into it, like a soft taco. We chose Duba Wat, a sweet and savory stew of pumpkin, in a mild turmeric, onion and ginger sauce. Delish! Gomen, collard greens stewed with onions, ginger, garlic and tomato, made those simple greens taste special. Tikil Gomen, highlighted gently firm cabbage, with onion, ginger and garlic, all in a sweet and mild turmeric sauce. I also liked the Shiro, a medium thick, mildly spicy sauce made from chickpea flour, minced onions, tomato and those tangy spices. Split yellow peas, in a tasty sauce, Kik Alitchka, was also palate pleasing, as was Mesir Wot, split lentils with ginger and berbere spice mix. This sampler was my dish of the night!
Photo by Bob Sacks
Yes, we were starting to get very full by this point, but pressed on and tried a few entrees. Doro Tibs ($17), diced sautéed chicken in a mild, onion, tomato sauce, was light but satisfying, and can also be ordered spicy style.
Key Wot ($20), tender cubes of beef sautéed in spicy Ethiopian butter, and stewed in red pepper sauce with onions, garlic and ginger, is ideal as a shared course.
A generous portion of Pernil Al Horno (roasted pieces of pork) ($18) came with a side of gorgeous, perfectly cooked, saffron-colored rice.
Wine choices were challenging: a white, 2008 Austrian Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Riesling, had a touch of sweetness and nice acidity (think lemonade) to pair well. Even better was Bengali Brewery’s Six Point IPA Beer; the carbonation and caramel flavors making a great match.
Be sure to get at least one or two sides of the Platanos Fritos (plantains) ($7); these sweet slices melt in your mouth and were a standout.
Even though they are separated by an ocean, feel free to mix and match the foods from these two countries when you are ordering your meal. In Ada’s capable hands, everything seems to be united into a new land – the Land of Ada. And you don’t need to book a flight to get there!
Ada’s Gojjo
1301 Memorial Drive
Asbury Park
732-222-5005
adagojjo.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, reviews restaurants in this bimonthly column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
