PASCAL & SABINE
Rating: Very Good
There is something about the dimly lit and enveloping interior of Pascal & Sabine that draws you in and transports you to another place. It is French brasserie done over in a chic industrial style. The black walls and high, open, blacked-out ceiling made for an intimate, romantic feel, in spite of the fairly high noise level generated by a packed house the night of our visit.
Generous curved banquettes on two walls, marble-topped tables, and unobtrusive background music further enhance this seductive atmosphere. There is live music on Friday and Sunday evenings, and Sunday brunch. The bar is a large part of this trendy eatery, and all the stools were occupied when we arrived. An expansive list of cocktails, spirits, and beers, as well as wine, suggest this is a good spot for a plate of charcuterie or hors d’oeuvres and a favorite beverage.
Befitting the ambience, the menu is classic Brasserie/bistro with innovative twists. Our appetizers included Seared Octopus ($15); tender tentacles sharing the plate with celery root puree, sliced Niçoise olives, and a hint of espelette (cayenne-like pepper from the Basque region) was excellent. We were also impressed with the Smoked Trout ($8); crème fraîche, chive, and pumpernickel slices on which to slather it, afforded a savory mixture of both smokiness and creaminess. A sizeable slab of creamy duck liver, Foie Torchon ($20), came with pear puree and bee pollen, and a red wine reduction, and was richly satisfying. We also were quite taken with the Beet-Cured Salmon ($13), which was treated simply with olive oil, smoked sea salt, and pickled mustard seeds that lent a pleasurable crunch to each mouthful.
Entrees continued the theme of updated traditional French dishes. Trout Amandine ($32), a large, boned fish stuffed with haricots vert and Marcona almonds, in a beurre blanc sauce, was very good, and perfectly moist.
We marveled at the size of the Alsatian Pork Chop ( $30); the thick and juicy cut of meat covered most of our dinner plate, and was dressed with red wine braised cabbage, Anjou pear, and a cream/whole-grain mustard sauce. Delicious, but impossible to finish in one sitting.
Pappardelle ($24), was served in a casserole dish with a satisfying apple-fed lamb ragout, Swiss chard, and winter black truffle covering the al dente noodles. This is the perfect winter dish.
Salmon ($32), a plump center cut portion, was cooked medium as requested, but was marred by excessive salt on the fish, and far too much lemon juice on the accompanying mixture of kumquat slices, chopped hazelnuts, and baby mustard greens. The acidity became palate fatiguing after a few bites.
Of the side dishes, the Brussels Sprouts ($8) with diced Granny Smith Apples, pistachios, and crème fraiche, was superb, outshining the limpid Pommes Frites ($6) and Baby Turnips ($8), oddly drenched in a gluey demi glace.
The wine list, not surprisingly, is heavily French, with some Spanish, German, and higher end Domestics as well. The best values were found in the Loire, Alsace, Beaujolais, and points South. We opted for the 2014 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre ($65); a sauvignon blanc white wine from the Loire Valley, it is a quintessential bistro drink that marries well with many dishes.
Desserts here are a standout. Our attentive and gracious waiter, who took our entire order without the need to write anything down, and got it all right, told us the signature dessert was the Milk Chocolate Pot de Crème ($10); the white ceramic cup held a caramel topping with the sea salt to cut the sweetness of the smooth, dense, chocolate custard underneath. Very good, and very rich!
Gateau Basque ($10), an almond flour tart-like cake, with citrus infused crust, was filled with lemon pastry cream, blueberry preserves, and lavender Earl Grey syrup. The crust was light and the sweet-tart flavors refreshing.
Our favorite dessert, however, was the Beignets ($10) – highly addictive and too good to resist; indeed we are already plotting our return just so we can eat them again. They arrived in a wax paper bag alongside homemade strawberry jam; small, square, fried pillows, hot and dusted with powdered sugar. Any comparison to a donut would be a serious disservice to this memorable dessert.
We are very happy that Pascal & Sabine has brought a true French brasserie right here to Asbury Park. Fresh, seasonal ingredients and classic dishes that blend traditional flavors with unique preparations demonstrate a commitment to the “rich, sensory experience” Pascal & Sabine strives to create. Combined with the transporting ambience, a visit there is truly a night away from home.
The Two Bobs rate Pascal & Sabine: Very Good
PASCAL & SABINE
601 Bangs Ave.
Asbury Park
732-774-3395
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column. Read their reviews here.
