For most folks in the Two River area, crossing the Oceanic Bridge, which links Rumson and Middletown, has become an annoyance, rather than a pleasure, as its surface continues to deteriorate while the design of its replacement is still pending. The many potholes and patches produce a rather bone-jarring, unpleasant experience.
But there is a totally altered perspective for this landmark that can be best appreciated from a small distance away – sitting outside for dinner at Barnacle Bill’s in Rumson. From that serene vantage point, the twinkling lights, graceful arch, wide expanse of riverfront and lush green background, make for an entirely different encounter which is worlds away. The food there is ver y good, and combined with that gorgeous view, dinner can be relaxing and delicious.
From the varied list of appetizers, we had the Fresh Maine Steamers ($30) which is one of many signature dishes here. The generous portion of grit-free, nice-sized steamers was cooked perfectly.
Lightly breaded with cornmeal, and impossibly crispy, oil-free discs of Fried Zucchini ($10) were a happy surprise; they were juicy and very satisfying. Accompanied by a mildly spicy horseradish sauce for dipping, they were a whole new way to experience this vegetable, and made a believer out of me. Not to be missed! I will return for these.
Mussels Marinara ($16), a large bowl, piled high with juicy mussels in a thick, chunky tomato sauce, arrived with a half loaf of toasted sourdough bread for dipping, which we used to wipe the bottom of the bowl clean.
Barnacle Bill’s has received much praise for its hamburgers and the Classic 10 0z. Hamburger ($12) was proof that this reputation is well-deserved. We added American cheese ($1.50) and ordered it with grilled onions and opted for an English muffin instead of a soft bun. This custom blend of meats is larger than the usual 6- or 8-ounce sizes found elsewhere and the English Muffin soaked up the flavorful juices, while retaining some chewiness without become soggy.
This is the season, so we went for the Fresh Softshell Crabs ($28). They are of fered fried or sautéed and we chose the latter, with the request to use only olive oil and garlic and no butter. Crazy time to think about calories, but the end result was delicious. The pair of large, perfectly cooked crabs was tender and sweet. These were exceptionally good, but the next time, diet be damned, I will order the fried version. Can’t wait!
Pan Sautéed Crab Cakes ($28), two to an order, with a requested side of fried sweet potatoes ($4/Sm, $6/ Lg), were large and thick, with a barely discernible amount of filler. Perfectly seared on the outside, the cake was juicy and tender on the inside, the sweet fla- vor of the crabmeat shining through. An accompanying horseradish dipping sauce created a nice, tangy counterpoint. The sweet potato fries were sinfully crisp and crunchy, not at all greasy, and impossible to leave unfinished.
Barnacle Bill’s Blackened Mahi-Mahi ($28) was grilled and encrusted with a layer of cracked black pepper, making for a moist piece of fish that was tasty and very spicy. If you love spicy, bordering on hot, go for it.
There were many more tempting appetizers from which to choose, including: Fried Oysters ($14), Barnacle’s Hot Wings ($13) and Quesadilla with Pico de Gallo, Sour Cream and Fresh Guacamole with a choice of cheese $12/chicken $14/ shrimp $16/steak $18/, all of which sounded very appealing. A large selection of entrees included Grilled Salmon with Broccoli and Hollandaise Sauce ($28), Chicken and Shrimp Scampi ($24), Fresh Maine Lobsters (steamed 1 1⁄4 pound $26.; stuffed $36) Hand-cut 8 oz. Filet Mignon ($34) and Baked Seafood Combo ($28), just to name a few. Clearly, a return visit is in order to explore some of these dishes.
On this humid evening we opted to drink a cold, refreshing Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand ($12/glass), which had a nice minerality and crisp acidity, pairing well with all the dishes other than the hamburger.
If you want a tableside view of the Navesink River and the adjacent marina, the green hills of Locust across the water, and of course, that iconic Oceanic Bridge, then Barnacle Bill’s offers all that in addition to some very good food in a casual setting. There are tables and a bar inside, as well as live music a few nights a week, but to enjoy the wan- ing days of summer weather, and for a chance to forgive the bumpy roadway of that eye-pleasing span, now is the time to take advantage of the outdoor tables. The bridge is far more attractive when viewed from a distance, with a mouthful of soft-shell crab, than from behind the wheel.
1 First St., Rumson
732-747-8396
Barnaclebillsrumson.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
This article originally appeared in the Sept. 16, 2021 print edition of The Two River Times.
