SPRING LAKE SEAFOOD

2091

No one is more passionate about fish and seafood than Chef Bradley Rodriguez. He wants to prepare, serve and sell fresh, sustainable, locally sourced fish in ways that maximize its potential. A highly experienced chef with years working in the food industry, Rodriguez saw a great opportunity when the On Third Cafe in Spring Lake came up for sale, and he moved quickly to acquire it.

He serves lunch and dinner and even has a fresh fish market on site. With plenty of seating inside, on the porch and at sidewalk level, this charming restaurant is a perfect summer night setting to enjoy a light and tasty meal. 

From the Specials Menu, we started with an appetizer of Tempura Squash Blossoms ($18), three plump, breaded and fried blossoms were served with a Pomodoro sauce (Italian red sauce), and seasoned with Calabrian chili and a drizzle of olive oil. The delicately-flavored blossoms were most enjoyable with just a trace of sauce applied to them.  

Moist and dense carrot cake was a perfect end to the meal. Bob Sacks

It was impossible to resist the Tuna Pizza ($21); a base of crispy rice held the tuna, which was seasoned with spicy mayo, sticky sauce and wasabi crema. The plating was very artistic and the interplay of textures and flavors made this a favorite of the table and a strong contender for dish of the night. 

There is a sushi menu in addition to the regular menu and the Bluefin Tuna Flight ($20) called out to us. Three pieces of this species of tuna were served on the plate: akami (the lean red tuna meat with the least amount of fat); chutoro (medium fatty) and otoro (the fattiest belly cut, thus the richest). This dish was very simply presented to allow the focus to be on the Bluefin Tuna itself, and was a superb way to taste and evaluate the different parts of this fish. Each was unique and special in its own way. 

Also from the Sushi Menu we chose the No Mames Mango ($18), a very pretty roll of tuna, spicy mayo, mango and avocado. The generous portion was another example of the kitchen’s artistic plating abilities and the combination of ingredients made it taste as good as it looked.    

The Dinner Specials Menu was the source of Twin Crab Cakes ($42). The thick, juicy cakes had very little filler and were crusty on the outside and moist and tender within. A side of potatoes and string beans completed the plate. The portion was large enough for us to share a taste with our guests.  

A Featured Special of the night, Shrimp Encrusted Salmon ($42) was an interesting preparation; the moist and juicy salmon, medium rare as requested, had been coated with a mixture of shrimp and bread crumbs and served with a delicate beurre blanc sauce. The serving was large enough to allow taking a portion home for a snack the next day. 

Crispy crab cakes had very little filler and lots of flavor. Bob Sacks

Mahi Mahi ($38) was another special; served blackened or grilled (in this case grilled), it also was plated with fingerling potatoes and a choice of vegetables, in this case broccoli. The simple preparation allowed the delicacy of the fish to take center stage.
One of our guests opted for the Fluke Milanese ($39), lightly breaded pieces of the fish which were plated with fingerling potatoes and broccoli as well. This East Coast fish is almost a New Jersey tradition, but not often seen in local restaurants, and it was cooked perfectly.  

The dessert menu was very interesting, but we only had room to try one: Carrot Cake ($11). It was homestyle, moist, sprinkled with toasted coconut, and a bite or two was very satisfying and fun to share. 

There are some mocktails and a few offerings of wine from Ripe Life Wines, but Spring Lake Seafood is BYO. We brought two whites for starters: 2019 Francois Chidane Les Choisilles, a chenin blanc from the Loire Valley, which was fruity but not sweet, with good acidity and minerality, and a very long finish. One of my guests brought a delicious wine: 2022 Reverdy & Fils La Villaudiere Sancerre. This sauvignon blanc wine from the upper Loire Valley area of France was crisp, citrusy and aromatic, and a perfect foil for the fish we ate. I will be tracking it down and adding it to my cellar.

An unusual blend of garnacha tinta and cabernet sauvignon, the 2021 Diga, a Spanish red from the Montsant region, was light and fruity, and a good wine for fish. I always enjoy a red burgundy with seafood and the 1999 Michel Ganoux Pommard Rugiens did not disappoint. Fully mature, with no signs of being past its prime, the medium weight and meaty fruit made for a delicious bottle of wine. 

Seafood lovers will find a kindred spirit in Chef Bradley Rodriguez. His Spring Lake Seafood restaurant strives to offer a wide variety of choices presented in a way to maximize their flavors, textures and unique qualities. The location in Spring Lake and coziness of the restaurant also add to the sensory experience. There was a homey, retro feel to it that was a throwback of sorts to the Jersey Shore of old, in the best possible way. 

Spring Lake Seafood
1300 Third Ave., Spring Lake
slsnj.com

Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.Â