By Bob Sacks
The ideal way to enjoy food is to eat what is in season. Sure, a peach tastes OK when it’s grown below the equator in mid-winter and shipped to us in the North, but the taste and texture can’t hold a candle to a locally grown Jersey peach at the height of the summer season.
Soft-shell crabs are a special summer treat only available from May to September. Lucas Sacks
There are a number of foods to look forward to and enjoy as we enter summer. Soft-shell crabs are now in season and at their prime. These delicacies are actually hard-shell blue crabs from Maryland or Virginia which have molted their shells in order to grow and are generally available May to September. Delicious in many forms, including grilled, fried, sautéed or served in a sandwich, they are sold fresh at most fish markets, which will clean and prep them for you.
If you have never had the experience, it seems odd to eat the entire thing, legs and all, but it is pleasurable and easy. First dip in seasoned flour, then into beaten egg or buttermilk, and finally toss in panko crumbs. Frying in oil will give you a crunchy, sweet treat to eat in a sandwich or on its own.
What wine to pair with this summer pleasure? I like a California Sauvignon Blanc or Italian Pinot Grigio, with their acidity and crispness, but a chilled glass of dry Champagne is also a great match for this dish.
Gazpacho, a delicious cold summer soup made from puréed raw tomatoes, is a tasty starter to a meal. Bob Sacks
Another food I look forward to all winter is gazpacho. This cold, tomato-based soup made from raw, blended vegetables originated in Spain and Portugal. In addition to pureed ripe summer tomatoes, other seasonal vegetables such as cucumber, onions and bell peppers are mixed with leftover white bread, garlic, olive oil and some wine vinegar to create this addictive summer soup. Some recipes even call for ground almonds. Gazpacho is a cool, refreshing starter to any summer meal.
As to wines for pairing, I prefer an Albariño, a dry Spanish white, but have also enjoyed dry Italian whites such as Greco di Tufo or Vermentino, or a French Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. If you prefer red wine, it should be light, with some acidity, such as a European Pinot Noir. You can also enjoy a domestic or foreign rosé with this soup, as long as it is dry, not sweet.
Another tomato dish that perfectly defines summer to me is Caprese salad: sliced ripe, locally-grown Jersey beefsteak tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil and olive oil. This simple combination of cool, tangy and creamy is a delicious treat that is not the same out of season. Paired with a crisp Italian white such as Vermentino to match the acidity of the tomatoes or even a dry rosé if you want to try something different, it is a favorite starter or side dish on a hot summer night!
Warm weather also makes grilling outside a pleasure. Many types of fish lend themselves to the mildly smoky char of the BBQ – salmon, tuna or swordfish steaks are but a few of those. Grilled salmon pairs beautifully with domestic Pinot Noir, as does tuna, while swordfish marries well with a big California Chardonnay, preferably one not too oaky.
I enjoy summertime grilled chicken in its many forms accompanied by a Cru Beaujolais. These are not the unexciting Nouveau or Village bottlings, but rather Cru-designated vineyards, such as Morgon and Fleurie. They have plenty of fruit, but also good acidity and structure to allow them to enhance anything from a simple chicken fajita or taco to a whole grilled breast or legs and wings.
Grill staples, such as hamburgers, beefsteaks or other meats, call for richer red wines such as California Cabernet Sauvignon or Grenache-based wines, while a zippy California Pinot Noir is a fun choice to match with those must-have hot dogs.
It’s great to get fresh-picked ears of Jersey sweet corn and treat them to grilling. Pull back the husks and remove the silk before placing the ears on the grill. A dry or off-dry Riesling will enhance the sweetness of the corn. Asparagus is also a wonderful seasonal vegetable that is very tasty when grilled. Some folks think it’s hard to pair with wine but I enjoy Gruner Veltliner from Austria or Pinot Grigio with the grilled spears.
Another summer veggie I love grilled is zucchini, which also tastes great with a Gruner Veltliner. In fact, squash and green peppers on the grill all pair well with Gruner. Grilled red peppers are fun with a Chianti for those who prefer red wines. Just place the whole peppers right on the grill and turn them every few minutes. The charred skin will come right off if the peppers are left in a paper bag until cool enough to handle.
The fruits of summer are numerous, especially the aforementioned local Jersey peaches and nectarines. These are delicious simply eaten out of hand or as part of a fresh fruit salad topped with a dollop of ice cream or as part of a baked dessert topping. And let’s not forget our local melons, cantaloupes, watermelons, strawberries and blueberries. I prefer these without wine, but like to follow them with a dessert wine such as a German Riesling Spatlese or Auslese.
Indeed we are blessed here in the Garden State with so many wonderful locally grown fruits and vegetables of summer and with our proximity to the sea providing super-fresh fish and shellfish. Summer foods are but one more of the pleasures this time of year.
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
The article originally appeared in the May 25 – 31, 2023 print edition of The Two River Times.
