Does a luxurious restaurant décor make everything taste better, or does it raise one’s expectations for the meal to an impossibly high level?
That was the question I asked myself and my dining companions as we first sat down for dinner at the 1-year-old Polo Club in Holmdel. Formerly Remington’s, it was acquired by the Peach Group of Restaurants and underwent extensive renovations. The Peach Group also owns The Raven and The Peach and The Nauvoo Grill Club, both in Fair Haven.
The unremarkable outside of the building does not prepare one for the inside: high ceilings, expansive interior, cozy uncrowded seating areas, paneled walls, fireplaces, subtle mood lighting and the general feel of a posh private club located in a New York hotel. We soaked up the inviting surroundings for a while and then studied the menu.
There were some interesting choices for starters: Raw Bar offerings which included a Peekytoe Crab Cocktail ($20); several soups and salads, one of which was an intriguing sounding Lobster Porridge ($16); but we were drawn to the section headed Small Plates. From there, one diner chose Grilled Octopus ($22), served with passion fruit vinaigrette, black (squid) ink, shaved red onions and mixed with fresh cilantro. The octopus was properly tender and juicy and proved to be a light and tasty opener.
Ahi Tuna Tartare ($18) arrived as a disc of avocado mousse upon which the tuna rested, also mixed with mango jam, citrus cucumber and enoki mushroom salad. There was a side of crunchy taro chips. The flavors were sprightly and fresh. My guest enjoyed the dish, but wished there had been more raw tuna pieces in it making the tuna the main element and the center of attraction.
The unanimous favorite starter of the night was the Crunchy Cauliflower ($15). The perfectly crisp and greaseless florets were seasoned expertly with scallions, mildly spicy lychee sauce and togarashi (a Japanese seven-spice blend,) consisting of red chili pepper, sansho pepper, hemp, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, ginger, citrus peel, and nori. There was just enough cook time for the cauliflower to become tender, but remain pleasantly crunchy. Happily, the serving was generous and allowed for us to share it. Contender for dish of the night – highly recommended!
Since a special of Arctic Char had just sold out, I chose a different fish entrée from the House Specialties section. Pan Roasted Halibut ($45) which was plated with Heirloom Tomato Confit, Silky Peruvian Potato and a sauce of Citrus Beurre Blanc. I requested a substitution of any other nonstarch vegetable for the potato and was rewarded with a plate of carrots and wild mushrooms in its place. The large, moist halibut filet was tender and delicious.
Another special of the night, Scallops served with Lobster Risotto ($48) drew rave reviews from all at our table. The four large scallops were perfectly browned on the outside and soft and juicy on the inside. The soft creamy mound of risotto was loaded with a generous amount of chunks of sweet lobster meat and was addictive. Recommended!
The Kurobuta Pork Chop Milanese ($42), which comes from pure-bred Berkshire pigs, tempted one guest. This variety of pork has more marbling, reduced fat and a richer flavor than the usual pork chop. The very generous piece was plated with baby arugula, shaved Parmigiana Reggiano, and a sour orange reduction. It also got high marks and was deemed worthy of a return visit.
From the Signature Steaks portion of the menu, Filet Mignon, 6 ounces, ($39) arrived with pickled root salad, and H-1 steak sauce. This cut is also available in a 9-ounce size ($49) for hearty eaters. It was cooked to medium rare as requested and was tender and flavorful. A side order of grilled asparagus was shared by the table.
There were several tempting desserts on the menu, but we only had room for one. The Carrot Cake with mixed berries ($12) was the unanimous choice of our group. Three moist layers of cake were topped with a drizzle of caramel sauce and cream cheese frosting. It was almost too pretty to eat, but we forged ahead.
There is an extensive list of wines by the glass and the bottle, beers and cocktails to complement the meal. Diners are sure to find a favorite.
Indeed, by the end of the meal, my question was answered. In the case of the Polo Club, the lavish and comforting décor raised our expectations for the food to be of a high level to match it, and the food was indeed up to the level of the setting, so we were not disappointed. That said, the restaurant is suitable for any number of occasions: a family dinner, meeting friends, romantic date night for two, as well as a casual bite to eat and drink at the bar. It is admirable that the Polo Club can indeed wear many hats and provide a good dining experience no matter what brings the guests there.
The Polo Club
216 New Jersey
Highway 34
Holmdel
thepoloclubholmdel.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
